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mistermikev

Blonde Glamour Shots...Something old, something new, something blonde, something blue!

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5 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said:

How has the surface come out after routing? Will you need to plane or sand the radius for a good joint? 

In the end on this one it "looks" like there is a lot of machine marks but it's little more than I typically have on a body I've planed down.  I hit a screw head with my whiteside bit so she isn't herself ever since!  I hit it with some 120 on a sanding beam (2min) and looked it over and there are 4 or 5 spots I need to hit again but it's pretty much good to go.

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fwiw I went and looked up the thread that was sort of the inception for my jig as I wanted to make sure I gave some credit.  we were talking about fretboards at the time (july 2018) but in the back of my mind this jig was going to be able to do fb and be used for a spector-like build.  Funny, when you (scottr) said mr wonderful I thought you meant @Mr Natural... and he, @Prostheta , @ZekeB, @MiKro, and @Guitar Goomba all contributed on that thread (thanks for that sirs!) but it was a jig built by @Andyjr1515 that helped me fine tune my design.  thank you @ScottR for sparking the whole thing off.  I feel like I can't thank all the member of this community enough for inspiration/guidance/etc.

also, just wanted to credit a guy named 'marty' over at tdpri who posted the first thread I've ever seen on radius jigs for fretboards. 

also, sorry for sounding like I am accepting an accademy award here... just an excitable boy here.

 

" I have seen variations where the router is fixed to the jig, and the jig moves on a set of fixed pvc pipes(or other) - this is what I was planning but you've got me 99% convinced it is not the way to go.  So now I am thinking to build the bearings version like yours... but to make the radius part flip-able. "

http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/49380-anyone-use-a-radius-jig/

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2 hours ago, mistermikev said:

fwiw I went and looked up the thread that was sort of the inception for my jig as I wanted to make sure I gave some credit.  we were talking about fretboards at the time (july 2018) but in the back of my mind this jig was going to be able to do fb and be used for a spector-like build.  Funny, when you (scottr) said mr wonderful I thought you meant @Mr Natural... and he, @Prostheta , @ZekeB, @MiKro, and @Guitar Goomba all contributed on that thread (thanks for that sirs!) but it was a jig built by @Andyjr1515 that helped me fine tune my design.  thank you @ScottR for sparking the whole thing off.  I feel like I can't thank all the member of this community enough for inspiration/guidance/etc.

also, just wanted to credit a guy named 'marty' over at tdpri who posted the first thread I've ever seen on radius jigs for fretboards. 

also, sorry for sounding like I am accepting an accademy award here... just an excitable boy here.

 

" I have seen variations where the router is fixed to the jig, and the jig moves on a set of fixed pvc pipes(or other) - this is what I was planning but you've got me 99% convinced it is not the way to go.  So now I am thinking to build the bearings version like yours... but to make the radius part flip-able. "

http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/49380-anyone-use-a-radius-jig/

Thanks for crediting my router jig design in your design.   🙂  

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58 minutes ago, MartyM said:

Thanks for crediting my router jig design in your design.   🙂  

no sir... thank you for sharing it with the public.  I had no idea you were a member here, I also mentioned your jig at tdpri. 

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29 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

no sir... thank you for sharing it with the public.  I had no idea you were a member here, I also mentioned your jig at tdpri. 

I saw that when I was visiting your thread today.   This jig has been on the " net" for about 20 years and people don't usually credit me when they build it or modify it,  so I appreciate it when it happens. 🙂    I'm a member of a lot of forums, but mostly hang out in one spot. 

Edited by MartyM
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7 minutes ago, MartyM said:

I saw that when I was visiting your thread today.   This jig has been on the " net" for about 20 years and people don't usually credit me when they build it or modify it,  so I appreciate it when it happens. 🙂    I'm a member of a lot of forums, but mostly hang out in one spot. 

I suspected that yours was the earliest mention of that type of jig on the net... I have seen some very old threads with it pictured.  I try to give credit where due as I recognize how much I've learned thanks to contributions like yours and others here and in other forums.  "standing on the shoulders of giants"! 

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sorry for posting so much... just a minor update here...

got my set neck cleaned up a bit, filled in some gaps with ca glue... will hold off on final-final sanding until after I do the final plane on the back. 

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got the set neck body radius'd today and took some more angle shots to hopefully show it more... this one came out requiring less sanding because on my final pass I literally took "half a pencil line" off.

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QUESTION:

looking at this last pick: since this will be the set neck version and since I have to attach the neck before I can attach the top and do binding on it... I am going to run into something I haven't quite resolved in my mind.  right where the neck meets the body on both bouts my binding channel is going to have to stop.  Note that this binding is going to be set below the top by approx 5/32 as the top is going to have a roundover that will expose more of the edge of the binding.

at that point where my router can go no further... I'm going to have to cut the remaining channel by hand.  on this version I'm only going to do a single binding so it will only be one channel. 

So... what say you?  razor blade?  chisel?  combo?  stop the binding early and just sand the piece to stop short (naw, that sounds tacky).  Ever cut binding channel by hand?  pitfalls? 

I'm thinking In theory I could cut the channel on the body w/o the top first... only go in 3/32, then only have to cut the part of the top that remains... perhaps I could do that with a dremel and a sanding drum?  what say you?

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12 hours ago, mistermikev said:

Ever cut binding channel by hand?  pitfalls?

I had to cut quite a bit of the binding channels by hand for "Sarah's Mandolin".  Used exactos, straight edges where possible and small palm chisels. The pitfalls are keeping the channel edges straight, even and square.

The problem with cutting the channels on the top first before glue up is the top must be already matched in size to the body before glue up and then glue up in perfect position. You might be able to pull that off by screwing it to the body where the pickup routes will be. If you are planning to bend the top to match your radius, that may be problematic.

Also your channels need to be zero degrees vertical....90 degrees to the horizontal. If you cut them before bending the top, the sides will no longer be vertical. If you cut them after bending the top, your router will not have a horizontal surface to ride on.

I personally solve that problem by saying to hell with binding....:D

SR

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2 ideas that stand out to me; You could do a PRS style carve on the horns and make a feature of the binding disappearing, or just bind up to the top of the horns. Either would look awesome.

custom24_2017_photo1.jpg

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1 hour ago, ScottR said:

I had to cut quite a bit of the binding channels by hand for "Sarah's Mandolin".  Used exactos, straight edges where possible and small palm chisels. The pitfalls are keeping the channel edges straight, even and square.

The problem with cutting the channels on the top first before glue up is the top must be already matched in size to the body before glue up and then glue up in perfect position. You might be able to pull that off by screwing it to the body where the pickup routes will be. If you are planning to bend the top to match your radius, that may be problematic.

Also your channels need to be zero degrees vertical....90 degrees to the horizontal. If you cut them before bending the top, the sides will no longer be vertical. If you cut them after bending the top, your router will not have a horizontal surface to ride on.

I personally solve that problem by saying to hell with binding....:D

SR

dang it I'm out of thanks again... (do I get more of those once I'm a patreon?)  I meant to give one to you both but fat fingerd a like for ad and then was out... anywho

thanks for the reply.  first off is a palm chisel just a chisel?  probably a stupid question cause I think they are.  I need to snag a few decent chesels.  I have a few craftsman and a kobalt but they hold an edge for crap.  I just don't want to spend $50 on something I barely use.

fwiw I wasn't saying to cut the top to size and then glue... but to cut the binding in the body-(mahog) before adding the top/neck.  this would at least ensure a square bottom.  The binding is going to sit slightly below the top and extend over it only by 3/32.  I would cut a 5/32 binding channel in the back, then add the top and try to hit it with a dremel.  I think I might go this route but just do the first 4 inches and then do the rest of the channel with the top glued up. 

def not attempting to cut the top and then apply... like you said the edges would have to be beveled and even on a straight edge getting it to size would be a nightmare - fully recognize that.

am thinking I will go snag a palm router to use in the typical carve-top-binding-jig.  what say you?  full size router strikes me as too heavy.  thinking a bosch colt. 

 

1 hour ago, ADFinlayson said:

2 ideas that stand out to me; You could do a PRS style carve on the horns and make a feature of the binding disappearing, or just bind up to the top of the horns. Either would look awesome.

custom24_2017_photo1.jpg

this is a great idea... but it isn't going to work on this one.  On this guitar I don't think it would look right due to the fact that there is not a "point" to stop at on a strat.

also like the idea of the binding fading out.  I could just tape down a wedge at the horn and fade it out.  Good idea... I'm gonna think on that.  At the least I might have to use that idea later as it's a good one.  For this one I am thinking I might be able to work it out by doing the channel on the back before I glue up the neck/top.

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22 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

first off is a palm chisel just a chisel?

Whenit's all said and done, yes. It has a handle like a palm gouge, and a good brand will run $20-$30. They are typically narrower and smaller than what you'd normally think of as a chisel.

 

26 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

fwiw I wasn't saying to cut the top to size and then glue... but to cut the binding in the body-(mahog) before adding the top/neck.  this would at least ensure a square bottom.

This is probably a good idea, if you can rig it to insure a vertical cut with that radius already cut. That will give you a guide to match to with your dremel, chisel or other weapon of choice.

SR

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7 minutes ago, ScottR said:

Whenit's all said and done, yes. It has a handle like a palm gouge, and a good brand will run $20-$30. They are typically narrower and smaller than what you'd normally think of as a chisel.

 

This is probably a good idea, if you can rig it to insure a vertical cut with that radius already cut. That will give you a guide to match to with your dremel, chisel or other weapon of choice.

SR

ok, well yer learnin' me.  what brand do you use (palm chisel)?  About the only thing I use them for is removing glue and cutting my truss channel ends.  the current 1/4" I have sux.  I would like to replace that.

afa vertical cut... the plan is to pickup some drawer slides and claim one of the wifes cutting boards and make the typical carve top router jig.  Are you aware of any better jigs for carve top binding?  this one seems a little dangerous.  I was thinking I could make a base to mount my body to with some handles to ensure I don't slip and put my hand into an exposed router bit!

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8 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

what brand do you use (palm chisel)? 

Most of my stuff is Ramelson or Pfeil "Swiss Made". Amazon carries both.

9 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

Are you aware of any better jigs for carve top binding?

Nope, I try to stay away from the stuff unless there's no way around it. Like an F style mandolin.....I couldn't see any way out of that one.

SR

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36 minutes ago, ScottR said:

Most of my stuff is Ramelson or Pfeil "Swiss Made". Amazon carries both.

Nope, I try to stay away from the stuff unless there's no way around it. Like an F style mandolin.....I couldn't see any way out of that one.

SR

thanks for the tip.  I will keep those brands at the top of my list.

thats right... I think you said that you hate doing binding.  I spose some would say that it just looks cheap but I'm a sucker for it.  anywho, thanks again for chiming in gentlemen!

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Done well, it adds a lot of class to the look of the instrument, and binding on acoustics serve a practical purpose. My aversion is two-fold. I don't like rubbing my forearm over the sharp edge it creates, and my designs are all about flowing curves. There are a few sharp edges, but they aren't very long and even then have a bit of roundover.

SR

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14 minutes ago, ScottR said:

Done well, it adds a lot of class to the look of the instrument, and binding on acoustics serve a practical purpose. My aversion is two-fold. I don't like rubbing my forearm over the sharp edge it creates, and my designs are all about flowing curves. There are a few sharp edges, but they aren't very long and even then have a bit of roundover.

SR

I hear ya on the forearm.  oddly this doesn't bother me at all on my teles and they have humble 1/4 rounds.  Forearm is the reason I am taking a page from @Norris on this build and doing a 3/8-1/2" round that will expose more of the binding edge.  I hope to see a lot of binding but have a comfy arm rest between that and the radius.

aslo... indeed, you have nice flowing curves in your builds.

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15 hours ago, mistermikev said:

I hear ya on the forearm.  oddly this doesn't bother me at all on my teles and they have humble 1/4 rounds.  Forearm is the reason I am taking a page from @Norris on this build and doing a 3/8-1/2" round that will expose more of the binding edge.  I hope to see a lot of binding but have a comfy arm rest between that and the radius.

I stole it from a Warmoth body I saw on t'Internet :D

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29 minutes ago, Norris said:

I stole it from a Warmoth body I saw on t'Internet :D

right on... well I very much appreciate it!  as guitar players it is our responsibility to borrow and make it our own in all aspects of our being!

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got my tops all glued up, rough cut them, test fit them on my bodies and turns out I won't need any steam at all.  I could bend them easily by hand and they would adhere.  dry fit them and put a few finish nails in to hold them in place.  I marked out my control cavity and thinned the area for the 5 way to 1/8".  Was thinking of thinning them down in the chambered areas to 1/8" but decided not to as I had to reinforce my dano near the pickups (1/8" top) as it was a little too flexible right there.

at this point the two bodies have to be treated very differently.  with the bolt version I can do some true oil in the chambers, glue on the top, then I'll cut the neck pocket.  with the set neck I need to dry fit the top, cut the neck pocket, cut a few inches of binding slot on either side of the neck, then glue in the neck, then glue on the top - hopefully I can sneak my top over the neck w/o too much trouble!

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bought this little guy for $40 off offerup in prep for building a binding jig...

DSCN2089.thumb.JPG.426a09776e9aab16ad4de356d0e89e86.JPGso...

here's a "sisters" shot...

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used my planing jig to thin down the necks to "almost" finished dimensions.  I'm doing a "asymetrical oval C" on the birdseye and for the set neck I'm going to do very thin (.77 at the 1st) C style.DSCN2117.thumb.JPG.bdaba3a9524b028176c1e96220e01267.JPG

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I’m a big fan of the end grain pattern you’ve got going on on that body, the way it curves round the same direction of your arch shape, that’ll look awesome once’s it’s all sanded 👌

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Edited by ADFinlayson
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3 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

There's some top class work going on here, @mistermikev :)

that is very generous of you to say and means a lot coming from a pro like you.  thank you.

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I agree with the top class statement. The radius and glue up is impressive.

And I somehow lost track of the fact you are building two.

SR

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6 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

I’m a big fan of the end grain pattern you’ve got going on on that body, the way it curves round the same direction of your arch shape, that’ll look awesome once’s it’s all sanded 👌

DSCN2113.JPG.ec87e93dfee1d268b78184fc988

somehow I did not see your post ad... sorry.  my attention to detail is horrible... I miss details all the time and missed this one.  thank you for helping me see it!  yeah, that should be pretty cool!

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