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About Prostheta

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    "Looks just like a Telefunken U-47"
  • Birthday 07/18/1976

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    Pori, Finland
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  1. A great application of toothed irons. The last thing you want when working to the last few mm of stock is tearout.
  2. Ah well, if you're familiar with French polishing techniques and can dedicate the time and effect, then you can sack off brushing! That's my personal feeling about this. As mentioned, some people are just gods on the brush but that doesn't easily translate to actually doing it....the standards are good to see being demo'ed, but unless they're taught step by step....yeah....cue expectation/reality meme.
  3. Doublecuts are always stressful when you start removing the tenon within the pickup cavity....
  4. @Andyjr1515 is a master with hand-rubbed lacquer/varnish finishes with the minimum of equipment and fuss. I'd defer to him on this one since I tend to shy away from lacquer at the moment. I can however get behind shellac. That is a zen sort of finish if you're hand rubbing.
  5. It looks like glue, yes. it shouldn't be difficult to spot sand and repair.
  6. This is not an option.
  7. Hahahaha! Always good to see that one can't help it. Hey, you ever burnt your fingers scraping....?
  8. Pornographic.
  9. That all depends on how you wipe it off. If you go with the grain, you are more likely to pull the slurry out from the pores. Going against it is better. The same applies when ragging off pore filler. @KempGuitars - a satin finish is preferred in my book also. Gloss is slow and tacky. I know we won't tend to contact the board as much as the back of the neck, but it still happens.
  10. ....a slightly shrunken pore fill achieves the look I like...which doesn't answer your question.
  11. I haven't, however I know a lot of people who have. It isn't a million miles away from Timbermate (which I bought this in place of) or even watered-down wood filler. I experimented with Osmo's wood filler, watered down to a thin cream consistency, and found that it isn't any different to a dedicated pore filler. Just expensive, but simple and convenient. Reading the MSDS of various dedicated products (esp. Timbermate) and alternatives shows that many ingredients are common, so you can infer broad similarity. Oil-based might be the one I'd try as being less likely to shrink back if I wanted that, unless they too have a high solvent ratio. These evaporate and reduce the mass causing shrinkage. With high solids comes higher surface tension which makes it difficult to work into pores. Several rounds of pore filling is the best way to go in my book. I've never been one to fight against what the wood wants to do, so glassy mirror finishes are not something I've ever aimed for. I love "living" wood finishes that patinate and age gracefully.
  12. maple

    Much of this publication was based on a legacy article from many years ago, and could well benefit from an update with a wider scope. On the to-do list.
  13. maple

    Thanks for the input Perry - I'll remove the photo and reference since it's inaccurate information.
  14. Regardless of this derailing, I think your own Tru-Oil technique is down pat if that Wengé is anything to go by.
  15. You're welcome, and sharing always helps refine techniques and knowledge. Like I mentioned, I think that the Osmo Poly-X is more difficult to build up into a thicker film like Tru-Oil, but its even more foolproof if there is such a thing. For repairs, it just needs a quick sanding or scuffing and new oil bonds and blends with old like a charm. I do think that the feel of a wax/oil product is key. Some feel tacky and "slow", especially the glossier ones. Scuffing them helps, but seems a little like a backwards step. Satin is definitely more of a looker for a fingerboard. I have this on stock right now and I think it should be ideal (little damp with water):