Schappy Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 I want to start making some Strat style bodies. I have a Bosch 1590 jigsaw. Will this work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 Yes...but make sure to cut back away from the line a bit because the blade tends to lean around corners.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar_player Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 Yes...but make sure to cut back away from the line a bit because the blade tends to lean around corners.... Just follow that and you should be set, it'll take a while but the good thing is you have a good jig saw and they cut pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 Yes...but make sure to cut back away from the line a bit because the blade tends to lean around corners.... Just follow that and you should be set, it'll take a while but the good thing is you have a good jig saw and they cut pretty good. and go slooooow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotYou Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 I did that once, on my first build. It's definitely wasn't fun. I was cutting through African mahogany that was almost 3" thick There's no reason it can't done though. You'll probably have to do a lot of adjustments afterwards, so make sure you leave enough space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razortalon Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 If I can do it with a handsaw, a jigsaw will definitely work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 ive done this one one of my builds, the blade definitally leans depending on its thickness, so i would reccomend leaving maybe an inch or more around your actual outline Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aidlook Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 ive done this one one of my builds, the blade definitally leans depending on its thickness, so i would reccomend leaving maybe an inch or more around your actual outline An inch or more?, what's the point of even cutting an outline if you're gonna leave that much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 Yeah, that one inch is pretty extreme. If the saw is that bad, maybe drill a crapload of holes all around with a drill press. Give that saw blade some "guidance". I have a real jem of a jigsaw that needs help like that. 1950's or '60's Craftsman deal. Real special saw this one is. Apparently it must have some special circuitry in it that makes it behave as if someone really stoned is using it. I know what I need to do. I need to contact the Smithsonian and see if they're interested in such a special saw. I'll email them now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schappy Posted December 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 Ive heard leaving between 1/8" and 1/4". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 well, my saw was special aswell :-p did i mention it broke mid cut? haha thats when i invested in a 17" grizzly - much more useful! its the tool i use the most! anyways, yea, i like to play it safe, because lets be honest, what are you gonna do with those cutaways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyManAndy Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 Just be careful and go slow. Here's how I did it: CMA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 I still only use a jig saw and find that 1/8" is okay on soft curves, but tighter curves 1/4" is better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 I'm definitely of the school that says you can use a jig-saw for a rough cut only. Then I switch to using a template, a router and bearing bit. I had to learn this the hard way. I usually leave at least 5 mm around the outline, because the blade can drift pretty far. But really, the jigsaw ends up being more work than it's worth. I've since found a couple of people willing to let me use their bandsaws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 Bandsaw is definately better...but if all you have is a jigsaw,go for it.. The area to watch is the cutaway....it is too tight for a jigsaw and the blade will drift alot...cut that out in small pieces... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schappy Posted December 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 Anyone else out there have the Bosch 1590? It has an optional precision control system where two guides are in place next to the blade to prevent blade run out. Should I use this? What speed should I run the saw? What type of blade should I use? The jigsaw also has a blade orbit selector depending on what your cutting. There is a setting for scrolling work and one for cutting hardwood. Which setting do I use? Im new to all of this and appreciate all of your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotYou Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 Yeah, that one inch is pretty extreme. If the saw is that bad, maybe drill a crapload of holes all around with a drill press. Give that saw blade some "guidance". This definitely works. The closer the wholes are to each other, the less drifting you'll have. It makes it a lot easier in general. You use the jigsaw for less time, which means your hand won't go numb from the vibration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schappy Posted December 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 What kind of blade should I use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j. pierce Posted December 15, 2008 Report Share Posted December 15, 2008 The couple of times I used a jigsaw, I made relief cuts, going from the outside of the blank to just shy of the body line in the tight areas. (I also used a heavy duty, thick blade to make these cuts faster, and took off big chunks where convenient.) It was easier than making a bunch of holes, and the wedges of wood just fell off as I made the cuts, letting the back of the blade stay clear so the whole thing turned easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finger Posted December 15, 2008 Report Share Posted December 15, 2008 What kind of blade should I use? I guess you can use any blade... but I think I would have prefered to lean to a more coarse blade... (if that´s the right word...?) Should not be any problem as long as you are going to leave some wood between the sawblade and the line anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted December 15, 2008 Report Share Posted December 15, 2008 What kind of blade should I use? The ones I use are ~10 teeth per inch I think. Just get one that's for wood (not for metal--it will take forever). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narcissism Posted December 15, 2008 Report Share Posted December 15, 2008 I used two blades for a test on my bass. I used an agressive blade which came with the jigsaw, and that cut pretty fast but had a lot of gnarled edges. When you're trying to get rid of a checking area, that's not the best thing. I will always use a fine toothed blade on mine from now on. It may take a really long time, but i'm happy with the results in the end, and it makes sanding SO much easier. I have a Black & Decker jigsaw with variable speed, and they're made by the same company. On harder woods use a slower speed, and on soft things (particle board for example) use a faster setting. You'll burn your wood if you go too fast, and you'll tear out if you go too slow. practice on some scrap wood of the same kind if you have any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j. pierce Posted December 16, 2008 Report Share Posted December 16, 2008 One thing that's particularly applicable to jigsaws and curved cuts, although I find it true of most saws, even handsaws, is to let the blade due the work. You can try and push a jigsaw through faster, and you might even get it through faster, your cut is going to suffer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted December 16, 2008 Report Share Posted December 16, 2008 (edited) One thing that's particularly applicable to jigsaws and curved cuts, although I find it true of most saws, even handsaws, is to let the blade due the work. You can try and push a jigsaw through faster, and you might even get it through faster, your cut is going to suffer. Thats a great point J and it also makes it much more apparent to whether or not your saw is up to the task and how suited the blade is as well. If the only way you can get a cut is by force then something is wrong. I think the oscillating feature on jigsaws now will go a long way to increase the saws ability, especially for things like rough cutting a blank and the like. Edited December 16, 2008 by jmrentis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted December 16, 2008 Report Share Posted December 16, 2008 I mainly focus on the blue sparks that are constantly flying out of my jigsaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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