Metalhead28 Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 (edited) (Titebond 2 that is) ...and so I picked some up and glued up a laminated neck blank with it. Then I was tipped off that it's not really suitable for guitar building, and a little reading here about glues pretty much backs that up. Would you trust it enough for maple neck laminations? It's got me thinking I might sit this blank aside for some experimantal project and glue up a new one for a serious build. Thoughts? Edited March 2, 2009 by Metalhead28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 (edited) How important is the neck..... I have used it on a few projects so far and have not seen any issues yet. So I will not be using it for customer work after reading some the Glue thread but for my personal guitars it has held up well. Edited March 2, 2009 by RestorationAD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalhead28 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 This was destined for a guitar I'm selling - so I'm also thinking I'll keep the blank for a guitar of my own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Herr Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 (edited) Unless you bought a gallon, Titebond is cheap compared to the "cost" of your effort. (Advise for next project) I have heard of plenty of people using titebond II before they learned it was worse for creep, almost all with no problems. Edited March 2, 2009 by Mike Herr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalhead28 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 There is no question, now, that I will use original Titebond for future projects. I've simply annoyed myself in that I followed a casual recommendation before looking into it sufficiently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stringkilla Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 As a presicion wood worker I've always preffered Tite Bond Brown. It is an aliphatic glue, strong, watertight, bonding agent. I am not a salesman for the company, I just know a superior product when I see it. Also, I must have used upwards of 1000 gal.'s of it in my working years and had little trouble with creep. Creep, in this sense, is a funtion of, way over the top, clamping pressure to be sure. I have made, and sold, about five laminated necks, usung it to bond them and so far no complaints, also the lami-bodies I've done are good to go also. Don't fret, use it with good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDub Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 I've read alot of posts about Titebond II, but that was after I bought a bottle. My first acoustic was done using it, and it's about a year old now, and I haven't seen any issues yet. I also used it to glue a neck lam that ended up being a maple and walnut one piece Fender style neck. The fingerboard surface is the whole lam. with the maple and walnut showing, and I haven't seen any creep there. That's not to say I won't in the future, but I wanted to share my experience. That said, I will be using Titebond I on future builds, as the bottle of II that I have is almost a year old, so I feel it better to start with fresh glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 You should not have any issues using titebond II. Yes the recommendation is original titebond. For a neck lamination you could have used anything. So I don't see what the problem is unless your glue up didnt go so well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narcissism Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 I used titebond II with no problems. My bass has been glued together since July of 08, and its gone through pleanty of temperature change and wood warping conditions. There's been absolutely zero prpoblems. My glue line is still flawless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddW Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 You should not have any issues using titebond II. Yes the recommendation is original titebond. For a neck lamination you could have used anything. So I don't see what the problem is unless your glue up didnt go so well. Hi Woodenspoke, If a neck lamination isn't an area where shear forces are a concern, where would you be concerned about titebond II creeping on an electric guitar? On an acoustic I can see the bridge being a concern, but if not in a laminated neck, were would creep be a concern? Thanks, Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 scarf joint.neck joint. I really don't think it would creep too much though...but why take chances with a glue that has been said to creep? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddW Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 Yeah, I thought of that after I posted, but then I realized the FB braces the scarf against creep. At least it does the way I did my last one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 You should not have any issues using titebond II. Yes the recommendation is original titebond. For a neck lamination you could have used anything. So I don't see what the problem is unless your glue up didnt go so well. Hi Woodenspoke, If a neck lamination isn't an area where shear forces are a concern, where would you be concerned about titebond II creeping on an electric guitar? On an acoustic I can see the bridge being a concern, but if not in a laminated neck, were would creep be a concern? Thanks, Todd I am not concerned about creep at all. At some level all glues will creep, but under forces placed into the wood by you or from wood that has not been dried properly, as it dries the force of expansion and contraction causes creep. The larger the piece the more force will be exerted and the greater the creep. Their was a long thread recently (past few weeks) on glue selection. All glues in the woodworking trade will work on an instrument. As instrument builders we do not need high shear strength, or any other additional glue related properties to make an instrument strong or hold together better (in my opinion). Just the fact that someone laminates a neck has increased its strength significantly. Just like Plywood does over a standard board. Example would be you can easily break a piece of 3/4" pine with a Karate chop (with the grain of course), then see if you can do that with a piece of plywood? Broken hand I would suspect. But again one piece necks are strong enough. One area is Bass necks, but I would suggest intermal reinforcement like carbon fiber rather than glue selection. A scarf joint on the other hand is a different animal. You add strenght in one direction but at the same time take it away because you are gluing to end grain. I am personaly not fond of the joint unless I had no other choice to make the headstock (small board). But again in that situation I would prefer to laminate down the center line of the neck instead, it's stronger and more pleasing to the eye. The short reasons original titebond is the glue of choice. 1. It's strong enough 2. It can be fixed easily, When your guitar does wind up in a museum 100 years from now, they will thank you. This is especially critical on an Acoustic. 3. It's inexpensive a PG requirement 4. Dries hard enough, which is especially critical for Acoustic braces. 5. Easy to clean up less likely to cause issues with the finish if it gets on the surface. If an acoustic is your desire and having thebest glue possible is your need then you would want to use Hot Hide glue in critical applications, neck joint (glued neck), braces, bridge. Laminated neck, scarf joint is not o ne of those applications. Of course most people use a Titebond type glue for everything me included. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddW Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 Thank you for the explanation. It makes a lot of sense. Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 (edited) I just bought a bottle of Titebond III today, anybody got something to say about that stuff? Edited June 2, 2009 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I just bought a bottle of Titebond III today, anybody got something to say about that stuff? Any PVA glue that is labeled waterproof should be avoided. According to other posts I have read since this one started the waterproofing of the glue means the glue will stay more elastic than a non waterproof glue. This will dampen sound transmission, prevent stain from penetrating wood which was exposed to the glue and possibly cause creep ( I have not personally experienced this creep effect). Check out the dragon guitar build. I will admit I have used titebond II on a number of instruments without incident as well as numerous pieces of furniture. But in the past few years I use only original titebond or similar non waterproof PVA glue on my instruments. Better safe than sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I used TitebondIII on my workbench and noticed that it does not dry as clear as original Titebond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 (edited) I used TitebondIII on my workbench and noticed that it does not dry as clear as original Titebond. I used original titebond and it dried dark brown/grey. Might have been the wood though. Walnut and padouk. Edited June 2, 2009 by Keegan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I used original titebond and it dried dark brown/grey. Might have been the wood though. Walnut and padouk. Never had that happen no matter what wood I have used? I used TitebondIII on my workbench and noticed that it does not dry as clear as original Titebond Its possible. I most cases your joints should be tight enough that the glue color will have no effect. You get some type of glue line regardless. The LMI glue I use is white and dries clear. Probably clearer than titebond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feral_smurf Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I don't mean to hyjack this thread but while we are on the subject on PVA glues i've been using this for most of my work. Any body else use it or any better suggestions for future as i'm running out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I don't mean to hyjack this thread but while we are on the subject on PVA glues i've been using this for most of my work. Any body else use it or any better suggestions for future as i'm running out Gret picture, now what is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Workbenches unfortunately are annoying to build the first one. Since really, the best way to build a work bench is to have one to work off of. As long as the puddle of sqeeze out is not big though, original has always dried fairly clear for me, light amber at worst. Titebond III has more of a brown color though that does not seem to fade away as much when i dries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I just bought a bottle of Titebond III today, anybody got something to say about that stuff? Yes. The sequels rarely surpass the originals, except maybe Terminator 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feral_smurf Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 I don't mean to hyjack this thread but while we are on the subject on PVA glues i've been using this for most of my work. Any body else use it or any better suggestions for future as i'm running out Gret picture, now what is it? Well as its the brand of wood glue i have been using, by the lack of knowledge of it i assume that no one has used it. It is PVA based glue but probably has many other things in it, just called EVO-STICK wood adhesive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 (edited) I don't mean to hyjack this thread but while we are on the subject on PVA glues i've been using this for most of my work. Any body else use it or any better suggestions for future as i'm running out Seems like they don't have evo stik in the states. I used it exclusivley on my strat with no problems. I also read of another builder who uses it as well. It has been used for donkeys years in the building and joinery trade so you shouldn't have any problems with it. I haven't and my strat has been together for 3 years now. They also do a waterproof type that comes in a blue container. I have since moved onto titebond original and I did find that it became tackier more quickly than the evo stik. I will stay with titebond not because I think the evo stik is inferior, but because it seems to be the adhesive of choice for many builders. You may have to look in the smaller tool outlets or on ebay, as when I tried b&q and some of the larger stores they didn't have it. Edited June 4, 2009 by jaycee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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