avengers63 Posted October 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 Inlays are in. I went with the ovals. The body carve is all finished too. Tomorrow I'll get the tenon cut down to size and the pocket routed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diffidentia Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 That headstock looks very similar to the new Parker Dragonfly headstock. I like it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted October 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 That headstock looks very similar to the new Parker Dragonfly headstock. I like it! That's because I made the template from a picture of it's headstock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted October 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 tenon cut & routed it's not guaranteed to be at the final depth yet because I don't have the pickups in hand fretboard radiused, sanded to 320, then wetsanded at 400 with linseed oil I'm going to wetsand 2-3 more coats, but at 600 also, I got in the turquoise dye this morning I'm doing some test dyes right now, to be followed with some test finishes I'll post the pics when I have it all together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 15, 2010 Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 tenon cut & routed it's not guaranteed to be at the final depth yet because I don't have the pickups in hand I know I can make the pickup heights under the tiesco clone you sent me. I know we talked about surface mount... is it going to be ok if you have to route maybe 3/16" ? (This opens up a range of possibilities) The design I have will be flat on the bottom but I haven't decided on a bobbin height. Do you have an estimate of a height range I need to be in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Foreigner Posted October 15, 2010 Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 John, not usually the hugest fan - aesthetically speaking - of your builds, but this one is looking really good. wow, that was a double-edged compliment, wasn't it. anyway, I really like it. Looking forward to seeing it finished up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted October 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 I know I can make the pickup heights under the tiesco clone you sent me. I know we talked about surface mount... is it going to be ok if you have to route maybe 3/16" ? (This opens up a range of possibilities) The design I have will be flat on the bottom but I haven't decided on a bobbin height. Do you have an estimate of a height range I need to be in? The minimum bridge height is 7/16". I've already stated that I'll be using a pickguard. It's the 3-ply blank from Grizzly. I have no issues with cutting pup holes in the p/g to give a little extra room. With no routing, this should give you about 3/8" total to play with. That being said, yes I can rout a little, but the less routing the better. ohn, not usually the hugest fan - aesthetically speaking - of your builds, but this one is looking really good. wow, that was a double-edged compliment, wasn't it. It's cool. I know full well that my builds aren't for everyone. I'm not exactly traditional in my tastes. Just the thought of a straight-forward Strat/PRS/LP/whatever clone really bores me to tears. In fact, the only traditional build I imagine myself doing is the SG clone I'm working on. There might be a Gretsch Jupiter/Thunderbird in there somewhere, but even that shape is so oddball that I can't consider it traditional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted October 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Makore as a fretboard? FWIW: I just did a little numerical research on makore vs. maple. For shearing strength, load strength, and crushing strength, makore is better than maple. It'll be just fine as a fretboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted October 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2010 I wetsanded the fretboard with lineed oil at 400, then twice at 600, letting it dry a full day between applications. I then buffed it out to 4000, and decided it didn't look as good as I wanted it too. Yesterday, I gave it a coat of poly. This morning I wetsanded it at 400, then gave it another coat. It doesn't look like it'll need ANYTHING else at this point. giggidy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraser Posted October 22, 2010 Report Share Posted October 22, 2010 very niiice. although I disagree that it doesnt need anything else....... i'm thinking it needs some little metal bits in those grooves ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted October 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2010 Ya know Fraser, that might just work. Let's give it a shot and see what happens! GENIUS!!!!! It seems that I didn't have enough material in front of the zero-fret. When I tried to put in the fret, the end shot across the room. Crap. OK... just a nut this time. I also got the basic contouring of the headstock done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted October 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2010 I'm trying something different with this neck. First, I took the blank to the final thickness (5/8") before anything was done to it as all. I don't think there will be any heel issues because 1) it's a set neck and 2) I'll be taking nearly nothing from the thickness sitting proud of the body, and 3) I'll be using all surface-mount pups, so nothing will be taken from the tenon. The second thing I'm trying is during the shaping of the neck. A while back I discovered the "D-Flat" shape, and decided that I really like it in general. So when I started the contouring, I took a big roundover bit to the back. This got the ball rolling very nicely. The third thing is some finessing of the shape. The last two necks I made had identical profiles on both sides of the neck: flat back with rounded edges. The "finger" side and the back of them feel GREAT. The "thumb" side, however, is too much of a ledge... the roundover is too sharp. So this time, I made it asymmetrical. I'm really interested in seeing how it plays. It already feels better in my hand than the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted October 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2010 DANG but this is going to look 14 different kinds of awesome when it's done! Picture some chrome hardware and a white pickguard on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted October 25, 2010 Report Share Posted October 25, 2010 Did you get your finish versus dye issue ironed out? I'm looking forward to seeing that turquiose under some clear. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted October 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2010 Yep. I needed to switch to an aerosol first coat. I DID try spraying the w/b poly first... with the Misto sprayer. It gave me a good even coat, but the atomization wasn't fine enough and left it wet enough to draw the finish out. Switching to a rattle can made all the difference in the world. While I was testing the spray can, I called Woodcraft. They suggested thinning down my shellac 2:1 to 3:1 and using it as a seal coat. The suggestion was that it wouldn't be enough to green out the color, but would still seal it in. I did as they said, even waiting overnight until I put the w/b over it. Well, it didn't seal it in. The w/b over the top STILL drew the color through. I even tried it with full strength shellac, but even THAT didn't seal the dye in. Fortunately, a rattle can of w/b lacquer from Auto-Zone did the job perfectly. I'm trying it out right now with a spray can of w/b poly. If that works as well, I'll be able to empty the can onto the body, then use a brush to build the thickness. Otherwise, I'll be getting some more cans of the lacquer. Either way, I know it'll work, so it's safe to proceed. On a different note, I saw a can of orange automotive lacquer at Auto-Zone that I'll be using on an Airline copy I have on the back burner. Ya don't see many orange guitars without "GRETSCH" on the headstock. The goofy Airline guitars are just begging for a strange finish, so there you go. Add in either a bocote or chechen neck to class it up a bit, some old Tiesco singles, and a Tiesco vibrato and we're good to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted October 25, 2010 Report Share Posted October 25, 2010 I cleared that first guitar I did with automotive acrylic lacquer spray cans from Auto Zone. It acts a lot like nitro. One thing though, 6 months after polishing it up it was still shrinking. I probably put too much on, but it's something to keep an eye out for. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted October 25, 2010 Report Share Posted October 25, 2010 I'm really interested in seeing how it plays. It already feels better in my hand than the others. I shape a lot of my necks like this. Not quite as square - but with the shaprer radius @ the bass side & shallower radius on the treble side. Fits more naturaly in your hand. usually plays & feels excellent. But depending on the wood used & how thick it is, you can get something so strong it wont allow any bend in the neck. So you get a bolt straight neck with no releif when strung up. I have a 22mm - 25mm thick neck on a strat made from quater sawn rock maple that is like steel, wont bend at all, even with pressure from the double action rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim37 Posted October 26, 2010 Report Share Posted October 26, 2010 I cleared that first guitar I did with automotive acrylic lacquer spray cans from Auto Zone. It acts a lot like nitro. One thing though, 6 months after polishing it up it was still shrinking. I probably put too much on, but it's something to keep an eye out for. SR that stuff is proabably is pretty much nitro thats what used to be put on cars back in the day befor they started using enamel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted October 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 3/4 of a can of aerosol poly is all this neck is getting. All I'm going to do is level it out (won't take much) and then maybe steel wool. I night buff it out, but probably not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted November 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 We were waiting to see what it looked like with some finish on it. It looks pretty dang good if you ask me. Here's one of the neck, just for good measure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 Hey,John.You ever think about adding depth to the finish by using a different color in a transparent color coat over the top of everything? Those colors provided in those sets are usually fairly "cartoony",and on my Exploder it was way too harsh and not at all what I thought cherry should look like,and I lucked into putting some lemon yellow transparent color coats over the top and then clearing over the whole thing...it really livened up the overall complexity of the finish.Turned it into a matter of "How did you get that color?" rather than "Oh...it's red..." Just as an experiment,why don't you take a colored piece of scrap the same hue and shoot a lightly yellow trans coat over the top and see how you like it?It should take it just slightly more towards greenish blue and you may be surprised at the difference.It really adds alot of fun to the experimenting too,since you can stain the wood one color and have your color coats be another to combine into a very deep looking finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted November 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 That's worth experimenting with on a different build. I had a pretty hard time with the finish & discoloration as is, so there's no way I'm gonna monkey around with the color at this point. The idea is worth investigating though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 Definately try it out on scrap.But the great thing about using color coats is that you first put a clear over the stain and level that,then your color coats have no chance of bleeding into your stain or leeching any stain out.You build up almost to your desired thickness in clear,then color coat,then clear to desired thickness. You can separate all of your color coats with layers of clear and create a very deep looking finish that seems to shimmer in the light a bit as you move it around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 ... and then maybe steel wool. I night buff it out... I now have this picture of you in my head wearing a super hero costume roaming the streets buffing out dull objects in the night hahaha. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted November 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 ... and then maybe steel wool. I night buff it out... I now have this picture of you in my head wearing a super hero costume roaming the streets buffing out dull objects in the night hahaha. Chris That's me - a real-life Kick A$$. I go out at night as Buff man, seeking to buff out crime everywhere. All evildoers must be in the buff. No, I DON'T get out much. Why do you ask? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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