pauliemc Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 This will be a long build (about 20-25 weeks) as the customer is still making up his mind on most of the hardware. But I have enough to start with so I got moving on it today. My lotus builds are cut from a single billet of timber. Body, Neck & head are all carved as one from a large billet, In this case it will be Black walnut. The only glue joint will be for the fret board. All I know at this point is this will have a 24.75 scale, 6 strings, hard tail, 3x side headstock & rosewood board. Few piks. Walnut billet. 14x2.5 inch x 5 foot long. Guitar marked out & releif holes drilled for the band saw blade. The eagle eyed among you will have spotted that its not perfectly straight along the centre line of the billet, This is because the grain in this board does not run paralell to the edge. So the guitar follows the grain & not the saw edge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 outline profile rough cut on the band saw. planed it to 52mm & marked out ready to start with the router. Cant find my damned 18 inch smoothing plane to level it for the fretboard , but rough is fine for now. only needs to be level enough to take the template. Grain is looking good in this billet so the carve should bring out some realy good lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jahnj1 Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Why do you do it that way? Isn't it beastly expensive/wastefull this way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Why do you do it that way? Isn't it beastly expensive/wastefull this way? I do it this way to eliminate as many joints as possible. I want as little interferance to the travel of vibration thru the timber as I can get. So I cut it from a single piece. As to waste, All of the remaining cuts from the billet go into laminate necks & bodies. So there is actually very little that gets thrown out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osorio Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 I think that isn´t a waste too, Paul show that will reuse the scraps in other projects. I´ll do the same, in case the one single piece neck/body was needed ( if the owner want that way ), imho a neck through project with body wings, give to the guitar the same sound properties that one single piece. But any way nice job till here.... keep looking!! seeya! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cam Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Love the shape and the walnut always looks great. Can't wait to see more of this one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 You've got some very nice things going on in the grain of this one Paulie, especially the crotch areas at the bottom and in the headstock. Are you going to work in a little neck or headstock angle or is it all going to be flat on this one? This one is going to be fun, carry on mate. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supplebanana Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Jahnj1 - this is what Paulie does with his scraps - now tell me this is a waste....lol http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=41854&view=findpost&p=439061&hl=%2Bwalnut+%2Bscrap&fromsearch=1 lookin' good Paulie - as usual! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 You've got some very nice things going on in the grain of this one Paulie, especially the crotch areas at the bottom and in the headstock. Are you going to work in a little neck or headstock angle or is it all going to be flat on this one? This one is going to be fun, carry on mate. SR Yea I think im gonna enjoy this one. the carve is fairly extensive on these models. This one will be a flat body to neck setup, with a 13 degree angle in the headstock. I do these with a 6 in line head but personally, I much prefer the 3 a side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hitone Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 Wow. I have to say this is the first time I've seen a completely one piece guitar. It's looking great so far. I guess it's just like old Wayne Henderson says "you simply put your penknife to wood and carve away everything that isn't a guitar" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted May 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 Wow. I have to say this is the first time I've seen a completely one piece guitar. It's looking great so far. I guess it's just like old Wayne Henderson says "you simply put your penknife to wood and carve away everything that isn't a guitar" I dont think this method would be financially viable for the bigger manufacturers, Just too much hands on for all the machine tooling in a modern production facility. Probably why it so rare, but you just cant argue with the sound quality from one of these. so even when my CNC shop is up & running I will still be producing these by hand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 The eagle eyed among you will have spotted that its not perfectly straight along the centre line of the billet, This is because the grain in this board does not run paralell to the edge. So the guitar follows the grain & not the saw edge Not a waste there were knots either side of the neck, McLovin the look of this so far. And toes ..... in safety boots, I now have a pair Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Interesting. Looks like you have your work cut out for you. My only comment is that knot in the billet scares me a bit. Considering the amount of compression wood that could be around your neck headstock area I would take it slow and leave a bit of wood on that spot while you are doing the neck. Let it sit for a few days before you go to town finalizing dimesions. If it moves you may have nothing to work with.. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted May 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 OK. Story time boys & girls. Once upon a time there was a hippy who made guitars. One day the hippy stopped work on a few fretboards to go talk to a client about building him 2 new Les Paul jobbies, the Hippy was very happy about this as he likes Les Pauls a lot. When the nice client man went away the hippy went back to work but never put his resperator back on as he was just about done anyway & realy only needed to clean up a little. So the hippy cleared away his work space & went home for the day. next day the hippy was as screwed as the global economy as he was kinda alergic to rosewood, which is not so bad unless he inhales a whole load of it, Which he had, the previous day, when he had not bothered to put on his resperator. You have no idea how hard it is to plane walnut when you can barley breath So I got very little done the past few days, But here you go anyway. Got the face of the headstock roughed in, & removed most of the excess from the Back of the neck. Back removed from neck up to about where the carve for the heel starts. Face of the headstock roughed out. Needs cleaning up but this is about the level I will be staying at. Neck-to-headstock area. There is 35mm of material here for the neck. well more than i need & more than enough to allow a decent volute. Still all very rough for now, Out with the chisels ,Rasps & router for this one next. When I can breath again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Well that sucks Paulie. How long does it take for that to clear up, or is this a first time thing for you? (I figured that since you knew you were somewhat allergic to rosewood, you may have had this happen at least once before). I'm guessing you used a bandsaw to clear away most of the back of the neck, but how did you avoid the horns near the body join? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 That sucks Paulie... I have the same reaction to Pau Ferro. I just don't use it in the shop anymore. Well get better and wear the respirator! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Well that sucks Paulie. How long does it take for that to clear up, or is this a first time thing for you? (I figured that since you knew you were somewhat allergic to rosewood, you may have had this happen at least once before). I'm guessing you used a bandsaw to clear away most of the back of the neck, but how did you avoid the horns near the body join? SR Yea, suks big time, Takes about a week for it to clear properly, So lots of nice headaches, painfull coughing, trouble swallowing & fook all sleep for about a few more days. Rosewood got me a few years ago & messed me up bad. Hospital visit, Nebuliser, steroids & everything. great fun. you would think id learn, but NO !! I only use a band saw to get the back of the neck going. Have to switch to a japanese saw after the first 5-6 inches so I can get up past the top horn. Cool saw, realy flexable blade that cuts on the pull stroke, cuts realy clean aswell with a very thin blade so only about 1mm of waste for the cut width. Cant go wrong !! Hey RAD !! Pau Ferro suks, I cant use it at all, the dust even irritates my skin, Let alone inhaling any. so I have to wear gloves & a mask if I have to work with it. This guitar building this is a dangerious profession, The trees are out to get us !!!! RUN FOR YOUR LIVES !! Pain Killers are fun arent they Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supplebanana Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 true Artisan's - suffering for your art... and boy do you guys create art! I'm very lucky that I don't suffer from any allergies (that I know of!) but with anything you can become sensitised ANYTIME! I used to work for a Pharmaceutical company & there was a guy who'd worked in the same dept for 20+years (making antibiotics), after 6 months secondment to another dept he came back & within 5 mins of walking thru the door he was laid on the floor purple & screaming. he had become sensitised to the antibiotics during the 20 years that he'd worked there. meant he had to permanently transfer & then never be able to take Ceph based a/b's again! my wife is allergic to Nickel, Pork, Cola nut, duck, egg white & turkey!!! except the nickel, the rest deveoloped in the space of weeks. the lab that tested her said the allergies could disappear as quick as they started. the human body is a complicated but strange machine get well soon - i want to see this one progressing!!! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted May 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 OK. Well hopefully tomorrow will be the end of the week from hell. Not only did I get screwed up with some funky wood dust, but so did my dust extractor. Turned it on this morning to a funny sound, then a crunchy noise & that was that. So now I need a new dust extractor. Still, cheap enough I suppose. Anyway. Got a little done on this, still a bit crap after the rosewood episode so its going Realy Realy slow. Got the neck thinned out a little. Only 5mm off the back. But these need to be thined out gradually to keep an eye on things, cant have it move on me. Down to 27mm at the moment, 3-5mm more to come off next wednesday (or thursday) then a few more days wait to go again untill its at 21mm. Still almost 8mm either side to take any sideways movement. But nothing moving so far. Considering this is at about 7% moisture & was at 6 when I cut it out im expecting next to nothing. trimmed down the headstock aswell & cleaned up the outline of the body. Fretboard Im thinking of using. grain is not bad considering how dry it is. oil should make it a lot richer looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted May 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 Some on the body. Body edge lines cleaned up. You can see where the top carve is kinda marked out.All very rough at this point as there is a lot to take off. Same deal on the back. she's a big chunky bitch. The main block of the body will retain this mass, but the carve towards the top will allow the player to sit it into their body very comfortably. You sill not have any idea by just looking at it when its done. the Beyonce effect, looks realy tight & slim, but man thats one thick round ass on there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jahnj1 Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 Do you use that thickness so you can make the headstock one piece? I imagine so. I just bought some walnut for a superstrat, how is it to work with? I hear its soft for a hardwood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted May 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 No not realy. I just adjust the angle & slightly shorten my headstock to suit the billet on this one. Even the inline 6 version of this model is that thick. the headstock fitting is just a flook. The Les paul & Prs type guitars I carve this way need a 4.5 inch board, to accomodate the neck to body angle. But it is justafiable there. but here all it takes is a degree off the tilt of the head & 4mm off the overall lenght of the front face of the headstock. Walnut is nice to work with. But you get some very fine sanding dust that can be realy nasty in your lungs so get a face mask. its easy to work if you keep things sharp, but it can sometimes blunt your blades very quickly so just keep an eye on your planes & you should be fine. what species have you got ? Speaking of thick boards. HEY SCOTT !! I found 6 more of these size walnut boards, all flat cut with serious grain even before they are planed, 3x14 inch - 15 foot long. & 3 boards 3.25x16 inch 25 foot long of white limba. does my timber guy look out for me or what this crappy week had to turn around sometime !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie H 72 Posted May 15, 2011 Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 I would really like to see a different fretboard on there, ebony would be my first choice. the walnut and rosewood are so conflicting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 (edited) No not realy. I just adjust the angle & slightly shorten my headstock to suit the billet on this one. Even the inline 6 version of this model is that thick. the headstock fitting is just a flook. The Les paul & Prs type guitars I carve this way need a 4.5 inch board, to accomodate the neck to body angle. But it is justafiable there. but here all it takes is a degree off the tilt of the head & 4mm off the overall lenght of the front face of the headstock. Walnut is nice to work with. But you get some very fine sanding dust that can be realy nasty in your lungs so get a face mask. its easy to work if you keep things sharp, but it can sometimes blunt your blades very quickly so just keep an eye on your planes & you should be fine. what species have you got ? Speaking of thick boards. HEY SCOTT !! I found 6 more of these size walnut boards, all flat cut with serious grain even before they are planed, 3x14 inch - 15 foot long. & 3 boards 3.25x16 inch 25 foot long of white limba. does my timber guy look out for me or what this crappy week had to turn around sometime !!!! Dude, I'd say your timber guy takes extra special care of you. Be sure to slip him a quart of whiskey. Folks, you need to pay close attention to what Paul is doing here. There is some serious planning involved in this. Getting all the planes and surfaces where they belong while remembering that wood moves and having a plan to accommodate that is no small feat. That's a lot of timber wasted if it moves and you didn't allow for it. This is a get it right the first time build. Keep 'em coming Paulie, this is fascinating. And it's gonna be sweeet! SR Edited May 16, 2011 by ScottR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 I just bought some walnut for a superstrat, how is it to work with? I hear its soft for a hardwood. Walnut is amazing. From a woodworking perspective, it's some of the best stuff out there. It's hard, durable, and stable. It cuts, sands, and routs really easily with little tearout or chipout. When you give it a natural finish, there's nothing you can do that won't look fabulous. From a luthier perspective, walnut sounds great. Most describe it as bright without being harsh... very creamy and smooth. It has a bit of weight to it, but not uncomfortably so. Chambering or thinning down the body can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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