Fagerholm Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) Hi! I have been reading PG for a long time, but haven't managed to start a proper build topic. After learning a mass of technics from here and applying them into own builds, I have reached the point of sharing a project. A quick history for starters: 2006-2008 swarm of acoustic and electric kanteles. PIC 2007: First guitar build - looked like somekind of warlock-shaped guitar, not much more. Learned to how-not. 2008: Guitar #2 - looked and also sounded like a guitar, kelly-shaped & KL headstock. Liked to play it. 2009: Guitar #3 - Another kelly, first with proper CAD plans, entered also into GOTM (9/2009) to hear some opinions. My favourite and the most beloved instrument so far. PIC 2009: Rebuild of the #1, fixed it completely. Tried to write a topic with it, but didn't lasted. Still unfinished. PIC 2010: Guitar #4, body went unfinished because of a drill accident. Won't be finished in near future. 2011: Bass #1, long project, but managed to finish it. Plays ok, but I found myself not intrested in basses. PIC 2011: Guitar speaker cabinet, 2x12 Eminence Black Powder. Fun build, unfortunately my amp isn't powerful enough. PIC 2012: Guitar #5, imitation of G#3 with improvements. Body is ready, no neck yet. And the recent project: Guitar #6 (build #8), my version of classic explorer. At the moment EXP2012 has advanced quite far and I got a bunch of progress pics waiting to be posted. Some specs: Body -Bubinga top, ash bottom, partially chambered -Cream binding Bolt-on neck - laminated maple & walnut - scarf joint - bubinga veneer in KL headstock & maple binding - pre-slotted ebony fingerboard, cream binding - Custom inlays, stars & deer horns - Graph Tech saddle Gold hardware - Schaller FS-G 495 stringholder - Schaller STMG Bridge - Schaller PU frames - Grover Rotomatics Electronics - not decided yet: 3-way in a horn, 2 vol, 1 tone or 3-way, 1 vol, 1 tone - Seymour Duncan Invaders And here we go... Edited April 11, 2012 by Fagerholm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fagerholm Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 No turning back to the lurking times anymore. Build was started in the beginning of March. Neck was laminated and attached with scarf joint earlier in February. The neck was originally meant to another explorer, but due to bubinga veneer it was moved to this project. Planer bench for router... ... which was used to straightening neck. Tried with planer, but it just teared wood. Results were great and I will do these jobs with router from now on. Trussrod routed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fagerholm Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) First mistakes were done during shaping the headstock. All seemed to go well until I stopped to admire my saw-work. Obviously drawing the shape on back of headstock was too much at that time, because I forgot to flip the pic over. Still this wasn't really a big problem, just change of plans. Which led to following stages. New headstock construction took some extra hours, but probably made it stronger and saved time in glueing bindings. Edited April 11, 2012 by Fagerholm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fagerholm Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Meanwhile in body section... Bubinga splitted and planed. At this point better camera was purchased. First usable pic of ash bottom. Every clamp in action. Glued body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fagerholm Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Router template Shaped Needs still little sanding. This was my main workshop for years, nowadays I only do sanding job there. My current workshop with nice views. And with these happy feelings I complete this day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 interesting, I'll be watching.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Looking fantastic, I like the long stable neck join and the altered lower horn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wretched Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Nice save on the headstock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiewarlock Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedishLuthier Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Welcome Fagerlund, looking good! Hope that isn't your current view from your workshop. Looks cold! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cactus Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Welcome Fagerlund, looking good! Hope that isn't your current view from your workshop. Looks cold! Not Fagerlund, Fagerholm. But I wonder what Fagerlund is doing nowadays.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fagerholm Posted April 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Thanks for a warm welcome, great to be able to post here. Hope that isn't your current view from your workshop. Looks cold! Workshop is 100% solar heated at the moment After writing a survey about intresting world of bridge waterproofing for whole day, I have to get some guitar talk again. Planing the headstock with router Backside I left 1-2 mm of extra wood just in case. Rough cut Headstock template Attached with screws. Tuning pegs will be drilled later on screw holes. Shape and fake bindings routed. Upper screw snapped leaving template on headstock. Removal chipped little wood. Chip was glued back immediatly though it shoud be hidden under the peg sleeve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fagerholm Posted April 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Rough shaping with knive and rasp. This small brick was drilled & carved for trussrod slot. Attached with glue. There's actually two of them. Sealed trussrod. And the neck progress so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Wow, that truss rod head is way back in there. You're going to need a flashlight to find it. I really like the maple bubinga combination you've got on the head stock and the way the wings and the binding are the same piece. I think I even like the way the head stock looks from the back better now than if it would have one piece. That accident definitely had some bright sides to it. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Excellent work on the headstock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 I agree. Really like the combination of woods and shape of the headstock. If I may offer a suggestion I'd recommend you change your method of securing the headstock when planing the thickness down with the router. It's only going to take one miscalulation in placement with your router - at best you'll destroy a perfectly good router bit and the piece you're working on, or worse end up with a very messy injury. Ask me how I know (thankfully it was the former for me, not the latter ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fagerholm Posted April 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 Wow, that truss rod head is way back in there. You're going to need a flashlight to find it. That's what actually happened, when checking everything is OK. There is still some extra wood on truss rod hole, but a long hex key will be needed. If I may offer a suggestion I'd recommend you change your method of securing the headstock when planing the thickness down with the router. It's only going to take one miscalulation in placement with your router - at best you'll destroy a perfectly good router bit and the piece you're working on, or worse end up with a very messy injury. Ask me how I know (thankfully it was the former for me, not the latter ) You're absolutely right. Routing like that is completely unnecessary risk-taking. I had some reason for it, possibly router and bench dimensions so I trusted in stable hands. Next weekend I will be probably cutting fretboard inlays. These were the first plans: negative crowns, horns and some bars. Ended up with these. Saw this Dremel setup in some thread last week. Many thanks for sharing a great idea! Building took 2 hours with designing and saved costs. Detail of screw attachment. Will be later replaced with inserts and bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fagerholm Posted April 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 I haven't done this complicated inlays earlier, so they showed great effort to make me crazy. Problems occured with jigsaw until I got it working properly. I should also buy finer sawblades. Plans were printed on a sticker sheet. After rough cut MOP was finished with Dremel. After all I'm quite pleased with it. Other inlays will be cut later. Routing PU holes. Slot for binding. Binding job. Bindings leveled by router. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fagerholm Posted April 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 I decided to place 3-way into horn. Pre holes were drilled trough from top. Then I drilled two marks with 35 mm and 30 mm drills. Bigger 20 mm hole was for router. After routing the cavity, it was expanded with another bit. Fitting nicely. Hole will be deepened after carving the top. Switch from topside. Electronic's cavity template. And routed. Have to say router is my favourite power tool, always good time with it (unless it's in angry mood). Now after hard work, I also need a prize, not beer this time. "Food brings great taste to chili." Already had some Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 The best name I ever saw for hot sauce was "Wrath Of God". I wasn't brave enough to try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedishLuthier Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Not Fagerlund, Fagerholm. If only I could read... Välkommen i alla fall! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fagerholm Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 (edited) The best name I ever saw for hot sauce was "Wrath Of God". I wasn't brave enough to try it. Chili sauce manufacturers seem to have a great imagination. "Ass Blaster" is sold in little cardboard outhouse. Not Fagerlund, Fagerholm. If only I could read... Välkommen i alla fall! Tack ska du ha och hälsningar från den andra sidan av Finska Viket! Some questions about using inserts: The upper one in the pic is zink coated M5, lenght 10mm, diameter 7,5mm. I have them also in stainless, and thought to go with them. Haven't used those earlier though. I have inserts in three sizes, M4, M5 and M6. What size do you use and is there some notable risks when using them? Edited April 16, 2012 by Fagerholm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 The upper one in the pic is zink coated M5, lenght 10mm, diameter 7,5mm. I have them also in stainless, and thought to go with them. Haven't used those earlier though. I have inserts in three sizes, M4, M5 and M6. What size do you use and is there some notable risks when using them? Disclaimer: I have NO facts to back this up - only gut instinct. I'd use the longer ones in stainless. The longer inserts seem like they'd hold better (more surface contact), and the stainless seems like it would be stronger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedishLuthier Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 I have used stainless and have gone from that to regular steel and haven't noticed a lower quality and I have used long and short verions of the plain steel inserts. And from those solid inserts I have moved to this type: (hiding the top part under the freat board). Lets remember that the plain steel are soooo much stronger than the traditional wood screw joint. With the simplest plain steel inserts like in the picture I use M6 size and Torx heads, meaning I twist the living daylight out of those screws and not a single insert has let me down over the years. So I'm pretty sure that any one of your inserts will do just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Your inlay looks excellent, you should be super proud. Guitar looks like it's coming along nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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