andyt Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 New build, got some PRS templates I've never used. The nearest I've been to a PRS, was my Washburn RS10v back in 1986, bought it mail order, when it arrived it had one half quilted maple, one half flamed. what were they thinking? Mahogany and wenge neck blank Got to decide how to cut it up to get the most out as its long enough for a neck thru as well Brown wood quilty goodness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyt Posted April 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 cutouts all the clamps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 That top screams tobacco burst to me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 all the clamps This makes me happy... Or maybe it is the Murphy's Stout and I just like looking at clamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyt Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 new homemade clamps worked well trimed down and a quick sand Couple of screws where the pickup cavities go hold the top down in the right place when gluing rough cut on the neck and truss rod cut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyt Posted April 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 ears ebony plate cavity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bghk6581 Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 Looking good so far. I have a suggestion and a question. I notice that with most PRS builds, the biggest thing they mess up on is the carve on the bottom cutaway. They don't make it big enough. On the PRS, its more circular than I see people make it on their builds. As for the question, I notice you use wenge. I have a big slab of wenge but I heard about skin irritation problems when cutting wenge. Could you share your experiences with using wenge? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diffidentia Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 Yes, you shouldn't use it. Send it to me Joking aside, I haven't got a clue... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyt Posted April 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 Looking good so far. I have a suggestion and a question. I notice that with most PRS builds, the biggest thing they mess up on is the carve on the bottom cutaway. They don't make it big enough. On the PRS, its more circular than I see people make it on their builds. As for the question, I notice you use wenge. I have a big slab of wenge but I heard about skin irritation problems when cutting wenge. Could you share your experiences with using wenge? Thanks. Sorry no feedback on wenge, perhaps because my fingers are covered with superglue? Seriously though I do wear a mask most of the time there is dust about. I think there is a thread about wood toxicity somewhere.. Trimed down the ebony plate with the router and remembered to angle the plate to the headstock angle Drilled small holes through the back of the plate then used a reamer to get them up to size, didn't want to risk chips Then went for it, first time binding a headstock, used the stewmac dremel guide. Notice the bit on the ear that chipped off & glued back another piece on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyt Posted April 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 repair ok Time for some binding bending the rosewood over a paint stripper gun Pre bent pieces Not going for any fancy mitres on my first attempt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyt Posted April 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 filing down flush another wiz on the router table to take down the outside profile, hmm that wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be thicknessed down the headstock on the sander Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bghk6581 Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 filing down flush another wiz on the router table to take down the outside profile, hmm that wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be thicknessed down the headstock on the sander Thats gonna be a BIG volute, lol. Love the binding/headstock cap combination. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMCHueston0311 Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 What thickness are u sanding down to on the headstock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyt Posted April 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 Thats gonna be a BIG volute, lol. Love the binding/headstock cap combination. thanks, should be pretty normal once neck is thicknessed down What thickness are u sanding down to on the headstock? normally use 15mm, no idea what a prs is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 Just measured my CE22, it's at 9/16" thick. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyt Posted April 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 Just measured my CE22, it's at 9/16" thick. Chris 14.3mm, cheers Chris Rosewood binding, was going to try grain match by cutting strips off the board, but by the time I'd jointed them would have lost a couple of mm. So cut some more strips with a bit of a contrast Board on trim down the binding on the router table Started getting the neck outline started, now got to decide if I want pickup rings or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wretched Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 Looking fantastic so far! You're making it look easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyt Posted April 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 Looking fantastic so far! You're making it look easy thanks I might try my first inlay couple of tests with the dremel - I need the right bits. All I had was one that was too wide & the one I used was some cone shaped one, so to get the correct depth it was cutting angled walls. Got some thinner ones coming from ebay, like the look of the stewmac downcut ones, but not at 18 quid each Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Looks pretty good. I think you are the first one i have seen on here who does almost everything in the same order i do. And i also like how you use a nice laminate neck blank for a fence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyt Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 belly cut inlay, only broke 3 drill bits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 Apart from the Crocs and socks everything is looking great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Apart from the Crocs and socks everything is looking great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Dig the footwear. Its like a Jason Voorhees face mask for your feet Gitir is lookin realy cool too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyt Posted April 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Ok made sure no socks & crocs were visible, can't wait till its flipflop season and can break out these badboys again and yes I've got all 3 pairs! http://www.vanhalenstore.com/page/VH/CTGY/flip-flops First inlay experience.. Controlling the dremel is not too bad, with a tiny bit it doesn't wander or pull like a router would, the most difficult thing is seeing the line you are trying to keep to. I sprayed the board with a real light coat of white primer, then drew round the inlays with pencil - made it much easier to see. Some people like to scribe round the inlay, then cut deeper with a blade. I tried this on a test, but had more trouble following the outline with a knife than just using the dremel up to the line. If I was doing pyramids or block inlays cutting with a knife would be the way to go. Glued in the inlays with rosewood dust mixed in, (remembered to tape the fret slots as the bound board would have been a pain to clean without that special Stewmac saw) let it dry then used a flat file to level them down to the board Nearly flush with the radius in this pic went through the grits with the radius block fretting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idmicheal Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Your inlay cavities look great. WAAAAYYYY better than mine. I need to remember to do that primer thing. Your fretwire is huge! Or maybe it's just the picture, I don't know. But those frets look massive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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