Sancho Marino Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 I agree with Scott, the color is looking really sweet indeed, much cooler than solid blue! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 That color is really interesting. I dig it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedishLuthier Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Definitely an unique top you got and I think I will end up liking it, but it will probably take a wile to get used to the blue/brown striped look. However It gave me some ideas to try on Zebrano, using more "natural" shades, maybe red or amber or similar to se what happens. Anyway, the Birchwood Casey Filler & Sealer seems to be doing the trick. The top has had three coats now (only one in the pictures) and the pores are filling nicely. It's looking really nice and shimmery right now, but the stain just wouldn't take to the darker brown grain. For what it's worth, I'm still pleased! I am by no mean an expert on Tru-oil but my experience with the filler is that it will for sure fill pores a bit better than the oil itself, and it will for sure dry/cure much faster and harder. But it will not fill the wood completely. The filler seems to dissolve the older layers and this not going on ash thick as you might think. So what I'm trying to say is; don't expect the filler to completely fill the pores. But you might have better technique and more patience. I'd love to see how it works out for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 My personal opinion is that Zebrano and Wengé are a perfect match for each other. They have similar levels of contrast in the grain and fairly similar structure sizes when flatsawn. Wengé is far better in the quarter than Zebrano though. Those 2K cans are good but not the best 2K rattlecans. If you get ahold of the ones where the hardener in in a separate compartment underneath and "released with a pin in the lid", they are diamond. As you know, you have to protect your breathing and your skin around that stuff. Tried it once using half-measures and regretted it. When using Tru-Oil, save your scraps and buy twice as much oil as you think you need. Practice everything on scrap because it is easily to screw up steps and set yourself back. It is fairly easy to restore and repair though, but wastes oil and annoys you when it is the workpiece and not scrap ;-) This is looking like a cool build. You're going to love this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu. Posted May 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Did you use stain or dye to add the blue color? Either way, and this is just my opinion of course--I like it much better this way than I think I would have if you had gotten a full blue coverage. The wood looks very rich, more exotic, and more natural - in these pictures any way. You did lose the cool looking combo you had going on with the natural zebrano and wenge.....but his is very sweet indeed. Bravo! SR It's a toluene-based stain (or does that count as dye?), but I really like it too! The binding stands out more now, even though the original contrast is gone. I agree with Scott, the color is looking really sweet indeed, much cooler than solid blue! That color is really interesting. I dig it! Thank you! It's a happy little mistake :x Definitely an unique top you got and I think I will end up liking it, but it will probably take a wile to get used to the blue/brown striped look. However It gave me some ideas to try on Zebrano, using more "natural" shades, maybe red or amber or similar to se what happens. Anyway, the Birchwood Casey Filler & Sealer seems to be doing the trick. The top has had three coats now (only one in the pictures) and the pores are filling nicely. It's looking really nice and shimmery right now, but the stain just wouldn't take to the darker brown grain. For what it's worth, I'm still pleased! I am by no mean an expert on Tru-oil but my experience with the filler is that it will for sure fill pores a bit better than the oil itself, and it will for sure dry/cure much faster and harder. But it will not fill the wood completely. The filler seems to dissolve the older layers and this not going on ash thick as you might think. So what I'm trying to say is; don't expect the filler to completely fill the pores. But you might have better technique and more patience. I'd love to see how it works out for you. Since you said that, I looked into the ingredients a little. The filler/sealer actually contains xylene and toulene, so I guess it is eating away the previous layers a little. I've basically got the same results as you suggested, but even that is a better start than hitting it with oil first! My personal opinion is that Zebrano and Wengé are a perfect match for each other. They have similar levels of contrast in the grain and fairly similar structure sizes when flatsawn. Wengé is far better in the quarter than Zebrano though. Those 2K cans are good but not the best 2K rattlecans. If you get ahold of the ones where the hardener in in a separate compartment underneath and "released with a pin in the lid", they are diamond. As you know, you have to protect your breathing and your skin around that stuff. Tried it once using half-measures and regretted it. When using Tru-Oil, save your scraps and buy twice as much oil as you think you need. Practice everything on scrap because it is easily to screw up steps and set yourself back. It is fairly easy to restore and repair though, but wastes oil and annoys you when it is the workpiece and not scrap ;-) This is looking like a cool build. You're going to love this one. Yeah, I'm just going to avoid 2K after that. I don't have time to invest into something really tricky. Lots of Tru-Oil it is (and scraps)! I've been taking some time off guitar stuff whilst I try to fix my career, but I made some progress recently. The neck shape is roughed in - the profile, heel and volute still need trimming and blending. I've also trimmed the tenon down and checked bridge pitch/height, which appears to be alright; I'll check again when the frets are on. There as been some experimentation with micro mesh too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 That shot of the top with the hardware in place is sooooo nice. You made some great harware chioces too. I love the way this is turning out. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 For what it is worth I have shot nitro over fully cured tru-oil with good results.Nice work. Can't say I am a fan of color on the beautiful wenge but judging from the green guitar in the other shot it seems like your thing so go with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu. Posted May 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 That shot of the top with the hardware in place is sooooo nice. You made some great harware chioces too. I love the way this is turning out. SR Thank you! I'm an absolute sucker for black chrome/cosmo black, even if it does rub off after a while. For what it is worth I have shot nitro over fully cured tru-oil with good results. Nice work. Can't say I am a fan of color on the beautiful wenge but judging from the green guitar in the other shot it seems like your thing so go with it. That V is stunning. It takes a lot of confidence in the wood to leave it completely natural like that. I really should have used grain filler on that green one, but alas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arriereitor Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 It's a very nice combination, it provides the guitar a smart looki like very much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 How much of a PITA is Wenge to work with!!?? Nice job so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Marino Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 (edited) How much of a PITA is Wenge to work with!!?? Nice job so far Wenge is splintery wood, as in it likes to spontaneously jump in little needle like shards straight from the board and into your skin It can also be a little bit brittle, so you have to be careful routing... Other than that it has giant pores so grain filling is fun if you're into that... In the end all the hassle is well worth it though... it's beautiful wood when finished Edited May 13, 2014 by Sancho Marino Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 Yes, I'm aware of all that. I've used Wenge on maybe a dozen guitars I was just making a comment in regards to it being a **** of a timber.. How much of a PITA is Wenge to work with!!?? Nice job so far Wenge is splintery wood, as in it likes to spontaneously jump in little needle like shards straight from the board and into your skin It can also be a little bit brittle, so you have to be careful routing... Other than that it has giant pores so grain filling is fun if you're into that... In the end all the hassle is well worth it though... it's beautiful wood when finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 From what I remember, Wengé is twice as hard as Maples. I'm using it to test the durability of tools because it's sort of a benchmark "wood from hell". Chips plane irons, throws teeth on rasps and makes bandsaw blades deader than dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu. Posted June 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 Yes, I'm aware of all that. I've used Wenge on maybe a dozen guitars I was just making a comment in regards to it being a **** of a timber.. From what I remember, Wengé is twice as hard as Maples. I'm using it to test the durability of tools because it's sort of a benchmark "wood from hell". Chips plane irons, throws teeth on rasps and makes bandsaw blades deader than dead. It's pretty awful for an amateur like me! Not only has it been seriously hard work, but it's wrecked a few blades and router cutters. Never again. It's a very nice combination, it provides the guitar a smart look i like very much. Thank you! This is where I am now: The neck is glued in and everything appears to be alright. The nut is definitely too tall or needs reslotting and the neck profile isn't quite there. I was procrastinating over gluing the neck though, so things should move ahead nicely now :\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 Faded blue jeans. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 COOL Blue Zebrano I have done that on a couple of V's. looks realy well with what Scott calls my radioactive gloss finish. Light greens work well also but blue just has a realy cool look to it. groovey lookin axe dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 That looks top class. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu. Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 Faded blue jeans. SR COOL Blue Zebrano I have done that on a couple of V's. looks realy well with what Scott calls my radioactive gloss finish. Light greens work well also but blue just has a realy cool look to it. groovey lookin axe dude That looks top class. Thank you! It means a lot coming from you guys. The finish is nowhere near radioactive, but here's how it stands now: There are some little things to tidy up here and there, but I'm very pleased to have finished my second guitar! I managed to buff through the Tru-Oil on the headstock tip, which I'll touch-up later. I also didn't like the filler/sealer in the neck and sanded it all back CAVITY COVERS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 Yep, I like that.........a lot. Very nice photography too. I think it is harder to take good picture of a nice guitar that it was to build the nice guitar in the first place. Looks like you just missed the GOTM for this month. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 The back side is stunning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pan_kara Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 wow! turned out really great! any particular reason for not carving the heel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 wow! turned out really great!any particular reason for not carving the heel?I suspect the heel is really thin I doubt it gets in the way at all. I get the same comments all the time about mine when I don't but they are never in the way when you play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu. Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Yep, I like that.........a lot. Very nice photography too. I think it is harder to take good picture of a nice guitar that it was to build the nice guitar in the first place. Looks like you just missed the GOTM for this month. SR Haha, I know right. Thankfully we had loads of sunshine in the Cotswolds so I was able to get a couple of favourable snaps with my iPhone. I might see if I can enter it into next month's, just for the sake of feedback and padding the vote out. A name involving denim is sticking in my head after your faded blue jeans comment! The back side is stunning! Thank you! It sucks that the prettiest view of the guitar is always going to be hidden though wow! turned out really great! any particular reason for not carving the heel? Thanks, man. It was a combination of fear about over-carving and the heel/guitar being very thin already. The lower cutaway is also very high up the fingerboard and quite tight to it, so access isn't really a problem. Maybe it'll happen on the next one! wow! turned out really great! any particular reason for not carving the heel? I suspect the heel is really thin I doubt it gets in the way at all. I get the same comments all the time about mine when I don't but they are never in the way when you play. Yep, bang on! I'm sure it's not as comfortable as yours, but it certainly isn't a hindrance and it's better than a regular Strat or Les Paul Thanks again to anyone who's chipped in with advice through the course of this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu. Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Hopefully it's not annoying for me to keep updating this one thread. I've started on something new recently. My dad was able to salvage an old sapele mantlepiece. It wasn't thick or wide enough for a two-piece body, but did make good wings for with a thick cap. I also had a chunk of mahogany and flamed maple veneer hanging around to finish the body. So far I've only bought the flamed maple cap. I also made a table for my router today, which I've been meaning to do for ages. It should make life easier and prevent a few slips! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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