DC Ross

No need to, with a properly-designed guitar

+1. Probably the same amount of effort involved.

Sit down with your design and be realistic about what will work and what won't. Draw it out full scale (including the components) and things will become obvious such as the balance issue (as has been pointed out), and where your tuners will go. You can get a scale fingerboard diagram from here.

Really? This seems counterintuitive to me in every possible way. +2 Lay a thin piece of scrap or something on the top, rest the bit on that and not the corner of your bridge post hole. This is all but impossible to screw up in my experience. It's a simple matter of geometry... Going from the post hole to the cavity (assuming a bit diameter of .25", a post hole diameter of .5", body thickness of 1.75" and a distance of 1" from post to cavity): Not much room for error. And going from the cavity to the post hole: Nothing difficult about lining up the bit & drilling to the bridge post hole... No steep angle to drill at -- especially if your bridge is far from your cavity. No worries about nicking the top or tearout on the cavity side, either. Meh. Whatever works.

Gotta be really careful going from the top down. There's much less of a chance of mishaps going from the cavity to the post hole (my preferred method).

Nice job on this one, and I like your ingenuity, but you may want to re-think the wire routing here. The pickup wires will more than likely get in the way of the pickup legs and impede the height adjustability. Ask me how I know

Easy enough to just leave the switch & knob in the body, and make the pups swappable from the backside like in the patent diagrams. I was planning on using bullet catches to make both the physical and electrical connections for my swappable project.

http://www.google.com/patents/about?id=mb4...ble+electronics

Small, like coffehouse 5 people-small or club 100 people-small? Waaaay overkill for coffeehouse, both are suitable for clubs (but might want to consider a Hot Plate for the XXX depending on how much you like to push the power section).

Please tell me you jointed those pieces before gluing...

You should call #1 the "S**t Kicker"... Looks like cowboy boots kicking I like it.

B3 Petty Blue to match my old 'Cuda

IMO, it'd be cool if you did an all-over leaf, then rubbed through to the black in the normal wear spots (forearm carve, edges, etc...)

I know you know, but there are many of us that don't understand the attitude of "I refuse to buy decent tools," especially when it comes to things like bandsaws. I use my bandsaws (yes, plural) more than any other tool by far. IMO, the old adage that "it's a poor carpenter that blames his tools" is BS. If you have a crappy tool that won't stay in tune (if it even gets there in the first place), of course quality will suffer. Not to mention the time and frustration it will cause you. To me, that has a cost too. My advice is to listen to the advice of those that are more experienced. There's a reason why you get comments like Spokes: we've been through it all before, and we're trying to pass our lessons learned on to you to save you money, time, and frustration. But there are of course those that plug their ears and dig in their heels who just need to learn things for themselves. With that said, a good quality blade on that saw sure can't hurt. Also, check out the "Mastering Your Bandsaw" DVD from Fine Woodworking/Taunton. It shows you some good techniques for tuning and sawing.

The dumpster? (couldn't resist )

Just replace them with shorter screws. Dunno what the big deal is...

I'm sure you know this, but your 2nd string tuner will be turning backwards in this configuration, and from my understanding, they aren't very stable going backwards.

I vote for left. The waist on the right is too severe, and the upper bouts seem too "flat," whereas the left is a nicer, rounder, more flowing shape

Now where the hell did you hear that!? Common knowledge. I know there are a few lucky people out there, but every printer I've owned has done this.

The main problem is that you can't search for words that have less than 4 letters, like "nut" or "oil."

I use the same tools, they just wear out a bit faster.

Just a couple of thoughts... Not sure why using a variety of bridges would be useful. If you can do one, you can do them all. It's all exactly the same process, and between Ormsby's tutorial and Hiscock's book, it's covered pretty completely. What do you mean by "neck shims?" Like, tapered pieces to stick in the neck pocket? This would be unnecessary if you route the pocket (or angle the neck tenon) correctly. Again, if you can wire one guitar, you can wire them all if you have a decent diagram, which are available here. << excellent resource. bookmark it.

+1 to ihockey2's suggestions. Jazz basses have very narrow, thin necks, so are very easy to bend if you grab the headstock and wang it around. This is normal. Don't screw with the truss rod until you understand what it does. Get this. Read it. Read it again.

Oh, you mean the "BOWWASCIITHTFPI"?