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mistermikev

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Everything posted by mistermikev

  1. sounds good. some nice playing. man, I love the mandolin. actually john hiatt cry love playing in the background right now (has a prominent mando part).
  2. so... I'm thinking ahead... perhaps dreaming. at some point I'm going to build a fretless bass. I'd like to do it almost fully hollow but probably only 1.5" thick. don't really want to spend the money on ghost saddles because it is really a one trick pony for me. something I'll probably only occasionally use. could do a ribbon/rope under saddle... but then you almost have to have a removable piece behind it as you are eventually going to mess with the saddle and potentially break the piezo. mic inside the body? I've built a few mics... the pimped alice for instance, and it is a fantastic sounding mic. def compared well to several commercial mics I have. Sounds fantastic on acoustic altho shock mounting in a guitar might be problematic. there are lots of schems on the net for electret capsules which would handle the shock mount issue. I suspect the gain would have to be jacked way up to get any decent sound so...perhaps it'll be noisy. obviously this would be something where I'd want to do a proof of concept... and I think at some point I'll probably build something and stuff it inside a semihollow guitar to see but was just looking for a thumbs up/down - feasible? any experience with how it might sound? I know frank zappa def toyed with piezo disks in a guitar... no idea how that sounded. what about a ribbon/rope piezo epoxied into the top of a semihollow - close to the neck so it'd get max string vibration?
  3. thing just grabs your eye. really looking fwd to hearing it so hope that's on the todo list. rock on.
  4. congratulations! couldn't happen to a nicer guy, or a better build. earned every oz imo.
  5. wow, this is a really cool build and I think I'm in love with your birch!
  6. did they bind the banding or band the binding? I'm confused. on this note: binding... I've seen a lot of guys do binding on the board prior to attaching to the neck stock. I'm going to try this on my les flawes but for me it looks so much nicer to have a consistent thickness of binding all they way down the neck. long story short... you binding looks good!
  7. good to know. have not tried indian but it is now on my list. thanks for that (or curse you for that... one more thing on my 'must try' list!)
  8. wow, that is some beauty ebony. is it dyed or naturally that black? if dyed... what did you use? love it.
  9. sounds about right to me. I don't think danish oil will seal off well enough for faux binding - might want to use lacquer. Maybe if you did many coats it would work, but I doubt it. I did my first build with danish... and after 3 days I put on the shielding paint. got some on the finish... and it sort of mixed in with it as I tried to get it off. was very difficult to get back off... in fact never did get it completely off as it left a little dark spot. beautiful finish tho. also, my experience with danish is that is take a long time to dry too. true oil dries much faster and that's what I was used to.
  10. I hit a similar phase recently. when I started my recent project I cut the neck angle a little deep on a blank and it was too short of r a 25.5scale guitar. then later, accidentally bought a 24.75 sl fretboard and realized it wasn't 25.5 once I had the inlays in. ok, I go back to the shorter blank. got the truss in, fretboard glued on and mounted it on the guitar to realize I forgot to cut the heel shorter. back and forth, back and forth. oh well. I think sometimes you just need to step away and get yer mind right. Here's to better days for you and me both!
  11. ah... also I've found that for some reason... in the cold finish/wood somehow seems to get softer or is otherwise more likely to dent. I don't know if there is any science to back that up... but I seem to recall when living in WI if I took a guitar out to my car and dinged it in the winter I was guaranteed to see damage later.
  12. you must have a weird soft alder up there. the alder I've seen nearby is not hard... but about the hardness of ash or a little harder.
  13. right on... well that actually sounds nice: torrefied alder - could def make a nice strat if you get a big 'nuff piece. at my hardware store they've actually started carrying walnut - you can get 3/4 x 7" x 2' for around $8. I always look to see if there is any figure in there but nothing yet. they also sell 3/4" mahog by the bdft. there have been challenges over at tdpri to build an entire guitar out of things you find at home depot. obviously frets and hardware would be sourced elsewhere but I admire the creativity of those guys. There's a gent over there that built a tele bridge entirely from scrap... and it was easily one of the nicest I've seen... but man what lot of work that would be!
  14. right on. I hear ya on the language barrier... I am really good at finding ambiguity in things people say so that is my own language barrier within my own language! In theory it could be done with my planer but I'd have to raise the neck off the bed and it would leave 1/2" round edges... so I thought a little jig might make the whole job a lot less cumbersome. the wood - we are lucky in the us but I am esp lucky here in phoenix. there are probably 10 stores I can get any kind of figured wood I want - but I try to find the deals. every time I go to the hardware store I always take a walk thru the wood section - can't help myself. figured oak is not that desireable for guitar, as it is super heavy... and hard as hell. that said I just have a weak spot for it. each board is 3/4" x 11.25" x 24". $30 well spent. something for a project to dream about anyway.
  15. interesting idea for sure. I could actually do that on my router sled... the reason I needed this jig is that I couldn't do the sides w/o moving things. stop coming up with ideas bizman - I'm def NOT going back to the hardware store! (jk) look what happened the first time: going to have a carved top figured red oak build in my future!
  16. thank you very much for saying so mr bassoon. what you describe is exactly what I was going for vintage/modern and it makes me happy to know that's coming across. very much appreciate the feedback!
  17. funny, your quick design doc is a better illustration than mine - nice work - at least one of us knows what is going on! I'm not planning on using this to cut the neck pocket... just the rebate on the neck blank. the blank doesn't have a fretboard on it yet so it will clamp flat to the bottom piece. probably make it only 3" wide - just wide enough to get a neck through. t nuts are a good idea. can't do wingnuts on the outside because the router has to be able to run on 3 sides of it to get a consistent angle on 3 sides of the neck blank... so I'll probably just use a forstner to countersing a lag bolt and then tighten via socket. thank you for your input bizman. I believe the idea has def improved based on your contributions. heading to the hardware store now. cheers
  18. right on, thanks for the reply. using a plane is certainly a fine way of doing it but A) don't have a plane, and B ) it seems to me you don't end up 'knowing' you actual angle when you do it because as you go deeper, your angle changes. Either way... trying to solve this with a router. afa route neck angle... that ends up complicating the hell out of your tenon. Could certainly be done. On my les flawes... I just cut the join area at 90deg to the 4.5deg slope. You can't do that on a les paul tho... because of how the body meets the neck. it only worked on my tele as it has a protruding area where the neck joins. afa 1 long bolt... the issue is that a router would need to run on either side to get the 4.5deg angle where the neck meets the body... so you can't have a bolt sitting out on either side. My solution to that is to have both bolts pointing inward and sitting flush on the outside. protractor idea- love it. going to have to snag one at walmart. I was thinking I'd just print out the angles on paper but your idea is much better.
  19. ok, you kind of glossed over something I was wondering about and hoping to see. How in the world did you scrape/clean the logo so perfectly? If I can add 2+2... sounds like you were going to use your 'second g' to mask the inlay? but you somehow scraped it? what tool? so many questions - sorry. looks fantastic. also, who got shot and had the nerve to bleed all over your ac unit?
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