Workingman

I ordered an under-saddle transducer once. It took a while to get here but the quality was good and the price was very cheap. When it didn't arrive in the time frame they said I e-mailed them and got good support.

I only do repairs and mods(so far)so take this with a grain of salt. About a year and half ago I took up playing upright bass. I am 51 and the chances that I will ever make it to being an in demand upright player are slim to none. I do it for the love of music and the instrument. Along the way I have become a better musician and have more insights into instrument construction. Yes I have self doubts but I enjoy the process. As a hobbyist it should be about enjoying the process. BTW I love your build threads and have learned a lot from them.

I would be careful about adding humidity. A guitar humidifier could help if the wood is dry. Typically holes in wood get larger when they are dry (the wood shrinks away from them) rather than bigger. I would look to see if I could get pins that fit before modifying the bridge.

I don't think Spoke is saying don't use it if it isn't used in production guitars. I read it as learn about the wood before you choose what to use.

The pink pup makes it an 80's Hair Metal Tele

Following with interest.

How heavy is it? I usually hear someone say oak is to heavy fro most guitar uses.

That looks sweeeeeet!

That is fantastic. I agree looks like a likely GOTM.

This tends to be a helpful place. Post what you learn as you go along so you can help others. You could try some fine grade steel wool to clean the rust. If that doesn't work, I wouldn't mess with the chemicals. Its not worth the mess and the danger. I would get new one. Basic classical tuners from Stewart McDonald or the like are not very pricey. Just make sure the spacing for the posts is right.

Yep been there done that celebrated with a beer. Three years later and it still works fine. In fact I have to think to remember which one it was.

Yea follow the leader means someone is always behind the beat. I like necks without front markers and if you have a nice board like this one I start wondering, why put frets on it? The I remember that guitars tend to need them. This is a great build thread.

No,if it is thin enough to run the length it is thin enough to wick in to the wood.Just don't glue the frets in.I glue the ends after all of the frets are seated and rough filed and beveled with medium CA.It is thin enough to go a hair into the slots without running into the wood.Only reason I glue the ends is to seal out most of the moisture in the air I wick in some thin CA if I find a gap--otherwise no glue. As far as fretboard polish, it is just micromeshed up to 12000 so far. If you get something on it while fretting clean it up and re-sand the area in question. It's not impossible....even if it seems like it might be. Brett, I wasn't suggesting you put markers on top of your beautiful fretboards, that's the sort of thing that would make you wander around in circles muttering to yourself. On the other hand, most of the bass players I know do need some sort of special attention or something...... SR OK Enough with all the cracks on bass players. Why do bass players watch guitar payers hands? I'll tell you why. If I ask guitarists simple questions like; What key are you doing that tune in? How many verses to the chorus or the bridge etc? On original tunes, do you have a chart? or, What tune are we doing next. I get answers like "I think its in F major" (for a minor blues); "I don't know just follow me." and "No 'cus I play it a bit different each time, keeping it organic." "I don't know the name but it starts on this chord." So in an attempt to keep things sounding at least halfway decent we watch the guitarists hands trying to anticipate what they are going to do next. If guitarists had half an idea (OK I could stop there). If guitarists had half an idea of how hard the rest of the band works to stop their screw ups from sounding as bad as they are, their egos might deflate such that they would fit on a smaller planet. BTW I play guitar too.

Check if there is a block of wood under the top under where the bridge goes and see that it is solid (not sure they have them on classical guitars). In the photo your bridge has the tie block near the neck and the saddle in the back. It goes the other way round.

Nice and congrats on the new tools.

That they do. Very nice. How does the neck feel?

That is nice. One cool thing is that is screams this was done by hand by a craftsperson.

That is so cool!

Could you put a piece of thin veneer on the back so they would still work?

What kind of bridge are you thinking of?

I fixed up a Yamaha Pacifica strat several years ago. New hardware, lace sensor pups (used) and a little fret end dressing. I put around $100 into it (I got a great deal on the pups). A guitar snob friend tried it out expecting to hate it. Said it played better than his American Standard Strat. You have the potential for a great guitar. About the bathtub route, take a look at the guitars that are being chambered these days. Less wood isn't bad, just different.

Have any left handed friends?

Very cool video.

my electronics abilities are modest but they exist. I see no problem with having a magnet touch a ground. I would like to know why the person who told you there will be one thinks so. They may be on to something I have not thought of. I think the best way to go for grounding is to ground the components in a line and have a lead go from the jack ground to the shielding.

That's a good idea. It's a moot question now 'cause I asked the wife and she said #3. Happy wife = happy life so number three it is! Smart Man.