Lumberjack Posted December 31, 2019 Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 Hey PG, I’ve been building off and on for about 12 years or so at a very “side-hobby” level and this will be my first foray here on the forum. It’s going to be a straight forward 2-humbucker guitar with 24 frets, pointy horns, and lots of flame maple. Here and the specs, pics of my starting lumber, and the progress so far over the last few days: Specs: - 25.5” scale, 12” radius, set neck - 24 stainless steel frets, slight partial scallop in upper frets, MOP dot inlays - Reverse headstock with maple cap to match body - Hipshot locking tuners, Gotoh tune-o-matic bridge, string-through-body ferrules - Volume, tone, 3-way toggle, individual coil splitting switches for each pickup - Bareknuckle Holy Diver humbuckers - Blue/teal stained top, natural “binding” a la PRS, natural back with neck stained to match, satin lacquer over everything African sapele with a wavy ribbon Big leaf curly maple top Eastern curly maple and ebony 5-piece neck, pau ferro fingerboard Scarf cut, maple cap glued to headstock face, fingerboard cut, slotted, and roughly radiused Top glued, body roughly sawed out. Scarf glued, truss rod routed and installed, headstock roughly cut and drilled, fingerboard glued on and a last minute decision to rip some binding from the curly maple top and use it to bind the fingerboard. Cheers! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willliam_q Posted December 31, 2019 Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 Welcome...build looks great. Super Strat - man after my own heart. I look forward to seeing this one develop. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted December 31, 2019 Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 holy crap... excuse me while I recover from that flamed maple... SOURCE PLEASE! Like what you are doing there with the binding too... that all is going to tie together nicely. Vcool. Look fwd to watching your build. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumberjack Posted December 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 3 hours ago, mistermikev said: holy crap... excuse me while I recover from that flamed maple... SOURCE PLEASE! Like what you are doing there with the binding too... that all is going to tie together nicely. Vcool. Look fwd to watching your build. Thanks for the warm welcome fellas! This particular maple top is from Kimball Hardwood's eBay store. They're a relative new-comer it seems, and frankly I have no idea how they're selling their tops as cheaply as they do - I got this bookmatched 0.32" thick top for $40. I don't know if that seems like as crazy a deal to you as it does to me, but they have dozens of listings like this up on eBay all the time. Definitely wish they were around when I was getting started, 12 years ago I could have hardly gotten the faintest ripple in a quarter inch flame maple top for $40. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted December 31, 2019 Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 11 minutes ago, Lumberjack said: Thanks for the warm welcome fellas! This particular maple top is from Kimball Hardwood's eBay store. They're a relative new-comer it seems, and frankly I have no idea how they're selling their tops as cheaply as they do - I got this bookmatched 0.32" thick top for $40. I don't know if that seems like as crazy a deal to you as it does to me, but they have dozens of listings like this up on eBay all the time. Definitely wish they were around when I was getting started, 12 years ago I could have hardly gotten the faintest ripple in a quarter inch flame maple top for $40. right on... I have drooled over many-a-ebay-listing from kimbal. Haven't snagged anything as I've got similar deals elsewhere but one of these day's it's bound to happen. They do seem to regularly get amazing stuff! I def appreciate you sharing! also... is that paul bunyan holding an axe in one hand and... well... an axe in the other hand? cudos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Lumberjack Posted January 1, 2020 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 1, 2020 11 hours ago, mistermikev said: right on... I have drooled over many-a-ebay-listing from kimbal. Haven't snagged anything as I've got similar deals elsewhere but one of these day's it's bound to happen. They do seem to regularly get amazing stuff! I def appreciate you sharing! also... is that paul bunyan holding an axe in one hand and... well... an axe in the other hand? cudos! I sure hope so! Not certain, just a picture I figured would go with my username. Get it? Lumberjack...? Axes....? But also, guitar axes.......? I’ll show myself out. Major pic dump from a long day in the garage: Body trued up to 80 grit, controls drilled. Control cavity roughly routed, and a shot of my “method” for cavity cover fitting; I’m not a big template guy (although I know I should be) and cut almost everything free hand, including routes. Pressing aluminum foil over the cavity gives me my shape, as every cavity I cut is unique to the controls and layout I decide on, which changes for most every build. Cover cut And fit Neck cut and trued up Side dots drilled Gluing up the MOP dots. Fretboard radiused to 1000 grit Frets cut and tangs ground off. Stainless steel is a bear to work but I’ve become somewhat addicted to the feel for bends/vibrato, and have found cutting the frets and grinding the tangs to be easiest with a dremel metal cutting wheel with the fret locked in a vice. Let me know if anyone’s got an easier way, I used to try nipping them but wore through tools pretty quickly that way. Sealed the binding with a spritz of lacquer as I’m fairly certain I’ll be darkening the fretboard with Stewmac stain and didn’t want it bleeding into the maple. Frets pressed Current status after a full day of work. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 1, 2020 Report Share Posted January 1, 2020 Very nice build. Welcome! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumberjack Posted January 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 Another long day in the garage = another pic dump: Frets filed flush. Hoggin’ out the neck profile. First time with a Japanese style rasp, these things really cut! Another last minute style decision: cutting a diamond into the volute. All shaped up. I’m tempted to inlay something into that diamond, but I’m not sure what. We’ll see. Headstock finally cut to form. This random worm-hole (or whatever it is) showed up while carving, never seen anything like it in wood this hard. Wasn’t showing on either face of the maple, just appeared as I carved. Drilled and filled. Not happy with this, but it’s better than a hole I guess. Frets beveled and ends partly dressed, and partial scallop roughed in. This partial scallop is something I’m doing on a lot of my guitars these days. Mild depth, maybe 1mm or so, fading in gradually from about fret 7, reaching further across the fretboard closer to fret 12 but never all the way across, and receding away toward fret 24. First saw something like this done by Perry Ormsby around 10 years ago when he was still a one-man operation posting his builds on Ultimate Guitar. Not sure if he was the first. Neck nearly ready for glue! Cavities routed. This split appeared while routing, looks like my flush cut but is getting too dull; this will be its last cut. Bled some warm water into the crack before introducing glue to give the glue something to ”follow”, wicking deep into the crack. Works like a charm. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
komodo Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 Welcome! Clearly you've done this before. It's hard to believe that you are free handing those routes. I've used templates and got crappier results, lol. Super clean build with a couple of nice saves. Perry used to be in here also, but it's been awhile now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 On 12/31/2019 at 10:32 PM, Lumberjack said: Frets cut and tangs ground off. Stainless steel is a bear to work but I’ve become somewhat addicted to the feel for bends/vibrato, and have found cutting the frets and grinding the tangs to be easiest with a dremel metal cutting wheel with the fret locked in a vice. Let me know if anyone’s got an easier way, I used to try nipping them but wore through tools pretty quickly that way. I came to the same conclusion and cut mine the same way. This is a very nice build and obviously the work of someone who's done enough to gain skills and style. Welcome and thanks for sharing with us. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neven Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 About the wormhole, I believe I had the same worm a few times myself.. I believe that's the hole you drilled too deep for fingerboard locating pin. You had a nice save, it is not that noticeable any more. I screwed up a few necks trying to hide those holes, but fubared them and had to do complete new necks because of it You have a great build going on, good luck to you finishing it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayT Posted January 2, 2020 Report Share Posted January 2, 2020 Inspiring! I love seeing this level of craftsmanship. "They" really ought to have a TV show in the vein of "Chopped" or "Face Off" or "Forged in Fire" where builders have x amount of days and limited parts/materials to complete an electric guitar. Judging based on design, construction, finished, playability...guest judges could include the like of EVH and Brian May...OK I'm rambling/dreaming now... Good stuff here, I'm mentally collecting ideas to steal borrow for future builds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumberjack Posted January 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2020 Thanks for all the kind words everyone! I can’t tell you how encouraging they are to hear coming from other builders. I’ve been going it alone for quite a while now, and it’s great to find such a welcoming community with similar interests. Komodo: to be fair I definitely use an aluminum block and a flush cut bit for the neck pocket, which is basically the same idea as a template. Seems to me the pickup routes and control cavity don’t have to be that exact since they’re covered up, at least not when I’m just building for myself anyways. Neven: I’m almost sure you must be right! Can’t think of what else it could be. Such a simple thing to mess up, but since this is just for me I won’t mind leaving it as a reminder to myself to never drill those guide holes without depth checking first More progress today: Early neck pocket fit test. Contours marked. Said it before but this is my first time using this Japanese style rasp and for $20 I can’t recommend it enough. Outside of an angle grinder (which is what I should probably be using to hog out this amount of wood) I can’t think of a faster way to tear out shapes. Contours cut. My last build was very conservative as far as shape/contours goes, so I swung all the way in the other direction this time. Heel carved to final shape and test fit. Last three shots are of everything wet down to look for problem areas. This helps me catch stuff I might have missed: rasp marks hiding in the sawdust, dents from clamping, or the blotch of glue at the bookmatch seam near the bottom. Got about 1.5 days off from work still, hoping to get this ready for staining and the first few coats of lacquer by then. All that’s left is about ten million hours of sanding.... my favorite... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted January 3, 2020 Report Share Posted January 3, 2020 3 hours ago, Lumberjack said: Contours cut. My last build was very conservative as far as shape/contours goes, so I swung all the way in the other direction this time. I was already thinking you must have a strange looking belly to fit that carve! Very nice, I especially like the minor details like the diamond in the volute and the stripes to hide the seams in the neck, and the shape of the heel following the body. The perfect marriage of beauty and functionality! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Lumberjack Posted January 4, 2020 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 Another batch of progress pics from today: Binding taped off for a bit of lacquer to seal it before staining the fingerboard and neck. First time using fingerboard stain, pretty happy with how it came out. I initially had ebony in mind when I started this project but didn’t have any handy, though this stain seemed to do the trick visually at least. Neck came out on the darker side, I may sand it back a bit and hit it with a lighter shade, depends on what the body looks like. Testing colors for the top and headstock. Body binding getting the same sealing coats of lacquer. Honestly the hardest/most frustrating bit of masking I’ve ever done. Seems like it was worth it though! Should have enough time to get the body and top stained tomorrow. Cheers! 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted January 4, 2020 Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 To me it seems like using lacquer to keep stain off of certain areas works better than tape. And I suppose that masking the body for lacquering is much more forgiving, the lacquer most likely doesn't creep under the tape as easily as stain would. Good to bear in mind! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted January 4, 2020 Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 Your contouring has style! I'm a big fan of the kind of details that make a build unique to the builder. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willliam_q Posted January 4, 2020 Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 Looking great so far, I’m looking forward to seeing the staining stages as I’m close to this step myself. Will definitely be following your method of lacquering the edges first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted January 4, 2020 Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 Impressive work you've done on that binding, it's turning into a seriously nice looking axe 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Lumberjack Posted January 4, 2020 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 10 hours ago, Bizman62 said: To me it seems like using lacquer to keep stain off of certain areas works better than tape. Definitely! I’ve tried it before using just tape, and since the dye is so viscous there’s always bleed and it’s really hard to get clean lines after that - even razor scraping leaves a sort of soft edge when I’ve tried it. 6 hours ago, ScottR said: Your contouring has style! I'm a big fan of the kind of details that make a build unique to the builder. SR Thanks! Definitely the most risky I’ve been with edges/sharpness, and it’s been fun to try something new. I’ve decided to name this guitar The Hatchet due to its sharp edges Alright, finally got to my favorite part of the build process today: color! The body came out plenty dark so the neck can stay as is. I was planing on screws for the cavity cover but had some magnets left over from a previous build and decided to use those. Base coat of blue, and a little truss rod cover I cut from some some scrap rosewood and colored with the same black stain as the fingerboard. First coat sanded back. Second coat with a lot more green mixed in. Second coat sanded back. Final coat leaning a bit back towards blue. I absolutely love the dying process, it’s easily my favorite part of the build; something about the magical transition from “guitar shaped hunk of wood” to “hey this is turning into an actual instrument” just does it for me. The color tests didn’t have me convinced I would get a rich enough color, but this looks great to me, and it will only get deeper once I put some lacquer over top. Despite wiping after each coat of stain, some color did build up on the binding, but I’m fairly certain I’ll be able to scrape it off before my first coat of clear as it’s floating on top of that sealing lacquer I put on yesterday. Once I get a couple coats of lacquer on both pieces I’ll glue up the neck, as I figure this will let me take off excess glue by just scraping down to the lacquer, that way I don’t have to risk scraping any of the color out when I clean up the joint. Definitely going to mask off the glue-contact areas to leave them raw though. I also won’t drill the bridge until I have the neck glued, as I don’t trust any measuring/marking I do to locate the studs until that neck is actually in there. Got some bad memories of uh, certain... adjustments... I had to make with previous builds. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted January 6, 2020 Report Share Posted January 6, 2020 On 1/4/2020 at 5:45 PM, Lumberjack said: I absolutely love the dying process, I think everyone should dye some figured maple at least once. It is magical. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Lumberjack Posted January 7, 2020 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 7, 2020 Shot the neck and body with their first three coats of satin lacquer and then glued up the neck, lots of pics of course: Glue still wet. Still have the bridge and ferrules to drill before shooting the whole thing in more coats, along with a headstock decal thing I have coming which will take a while to arrive, so I’ll update as things come in. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted January 7, 2020 Report Share Posted January 7, 2020 Love the color combinations! SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayT Posted January 7, 2020 Report Share Posted January 7, 2020 Amazing work, Love everything about this guitar...except you really messed up the---who am I kidding. It's freakin' perfect. The knobs holes look way close to the edge...I was wondering how close I could get mine to the edge. Why did you choose to do that, it looks really cool that way. Not sure I've ever seen knobs place like that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted January 7, 2020 Report Share Posted January 7, 2020 nice job not letting the blue get too dark. not an easy feat! that brown really pairs well with it. nice work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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