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Perhaps a scroll, definitely 3 single coils, and maybe an F hole.


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2 hours ago, mistermikev said:

I would be willing to loan you my vintage 1983 lotus in the meantime (hehe - I don't have a lotus). 

While I would def love to check out a build of yours, and would do anything for you... gosh that'd be an expensive way to get a recording of that guitar...  If only 're-guitaring' was a thing!

 

Yeah, those things don't ship cheap.

2 hours ago, mistermikev said:

just thought of a solution... you need a video camera and to pay someone for a single guitar lesson.  ;)

I need a video camera and to pay someone to play for two minutes.

SR

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Once I was able to see better I found that I did need to revisit the polishing. And once I got the hardware on it, I found a number of things that need to be tweaked. In the meantime, I got to see wha

The string audition was held and DR Pure Blues was the winner (and has been for some time). SR

I'm taking a page out of @Stu.'s book. See if you can spot any changes. This weekend was dedicated to finessing the curves, making sure all those compound curves blend into each other smoothly. P

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I mean to trick the guitar teacher into 'making sure your guitar was ok' hehe.  For $20-30... I bet 9/10 guitar teachers would let you just record them for 1/2 hour.  Hell, some might do it for free just to play such a unique instrument.  Anywho, I'll quite beating the dead horse.

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First of all: IT WORKS!

But no glamour shots yet as there is still a fair amount to do. The switch is selecting the bridge and neck pickups backwardly. So I managed to mix the leads up or misread Seymour Duncan's instructions, or they are just wrong. I'm expecting to find one of the first two options. The second and fourth positions work as they should and it is indeed very warm and fat. A fat strat.

Apparently my ziricote demons still live in my garage. This thing jumped of my bench and bumped its ass on the concrete floor.

DSC02655.JPG

So now I need to figure out how I'm going to fix that.

SR

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8 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

BTW is that chatoyance on the edge of the back plate? Or just a well lit lighter stripe?

Are you referring to the straight edge of the cavity cover?

If so it's a bit of all of the above.It is both chatoyance and a well lit lighter stripe.  That rosewood is pretty colorful in the right lighting.

SR

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3 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

Rather the curved edge, the two orange stripes shine so it almost hurts my poor eyes.

 

Same answer. That is another area of that particular color in the rosewood. The grain featuring that color are more chatoyant than the darker grain. And that particular section is the highest part of the back in that position. It was catching a strong low angled late afternoon sun. It fairly glowed.

SR

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damn Scott your heart must have sunk. you going to sand out greater area/build back and blend? i once tried to "spot fill" a chunk like this- but in my case I ended up putting too much retarder in the nitro and while I avoided blush (humidity was border line)-the dry time was so long I opened it up to dust settling in and ended up sanding it all back off in the end. i was thinking I could spot fill in a bunch-build it up higher than the surrounding nitro- then thin it down/blend it with thinner (that was the idea anyway)- but dust had different plans for me-plus I ended up with runs galore to be honest

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9 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

I've found that to be the wisest course of action when something goes wrong. What finish did you go for, is it nitro? 

It is nitro on top of a layer of polyester easy sanding sealer. That sealer is what you see pulled away from the wood and making what looks like a bubble.

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8 hours ago, Mr Natural said:

damn Scott your heart must have sunk. you going to sand out greater area/build back and blend?

Yes, at least that is the plan. Isqeezed some water thin CA into the cracked finish and it filled most of the bubble and rendered it invisible. There will still need to be some spot filling. It is in an area rarely seen, so maybe most of the filling can be done with CA and topped off with nitro.

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1 hour ago, curtisa said:

Just getting back up to speed after returning from holidays. That looks so damn good it even makes that lacquer chip look sexy ;)
 

Start sucking more so you can give us other guys a fighting chance :D

<_<

Good to have you back Andrew.

I trust your holiday travels were brilliant?

Now I'm pretty sure you have some unfinished business in these pages.....

Ready to go back to work?

:D

Cheers!

SR

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12 hours ago, ZekeB said:

That's a bummer scott.  It's great it sounds good though!  The coloration may be different but I assume when it's near level you should be able to polish the nitro to the same luster? 

Yes. One of the best things about nitro is the repairs are  easy to make seamless, if done correctly. The solvents in liquid nitro re-wets cured nitro at the point of contact and it all cures as a single unit. The down side of that is the solvents in nitro continue to evaporate for months, even though most of it is evaporated in a couple of weeks. So your options are to leave the added nitro sitting proud of the surrounding area for months before leveling and polishing, or level and polish when you feel like it....and go back in a few months and level and polish again. In this case the repaired area will have sunk a little below the surrounding level and the area will need to be sanded to the level of the repair zone and re-polished. Plan B is my normal choice because it looks better while waiting those few months and either way you are going to be leveling and polishing in a few months.

Plus by this stage of any build my patience is mostly gone.:D

SR

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