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Lumberjack builds for a buddy


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This build is sooooo clean! Can't wait to see the dye.

Anyone who doesn't follow you on IG, should. I'll probably bug you forever to be my guitar teacher. A beast!

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14 hours ago, komodo said:

This build is sooooo clean! Can't wait to see the dye.

Anyone who doesn't follow you on IG, should. I'll probably bug you forever to be my guitar teacher. A beast!

Thanks brother, much appreciated - and congrats on GOTY, a much deserved win!  

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  • 3 months later...

Got a lot of work done on this build and forgot to post about it - mega pic dump coming right up. Sorry for the inconsistent color/quality, some were taken on a phone and some on a camera. 

7NQEORX.jpg

KY9u1ex.jpgScarf stuff 

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Routed for truss and carbon fiber rods. 
 

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vt8xiaL.jpgDirect mount hardware countersunk and installed. 
 

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QvFh9QR.jpgFretboard glued, neck/headstock bandsawed. 
 

h3ZRNrp.jpg
pZpzcFY.jpgInlays. 
 

33cxT2Q.jpg
zZGdKBM.jpg

XBz6eBy.jpgFretted.

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oiHHWRU.jpg
Carvin’ time.

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Profile roughed in.

WLGlgyr.jpg
rfKcnyN.jpg
JEuXGJo.jpgProfile and volute/headstock pretty close. 

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Jyybsu1.jpgVolute medal inlay and tuner holes finished. 

WCGndan.jpg
Carved a little wire spooling and outlet area for the neck pickup. 

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Made a truss rod cover from left over fretboard rosewood.

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Side dots.

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if2d0pV.jpgNeck glued and roughly shaped in.

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q1pHoun.jpg

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Current state of things.

 

My goal is to be spraying finish this week, so I’ve got a lot of work to do! 

 

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I was wondering what happened with this. Looks awesome, love the way you do the volute + emblem/medallion/whateveritis embedded into it. 

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15 hours ago, ScottR said:

What is your fretboard wood? In a couple of pics it looks like cocobolo, in others East Indian rosewood.

That's immediately what I was wondering, it's a great piece of wood. Looks like EIR to me.

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Thanks all!  Re: fretboard species, I got it from Allied Lutherie and if I recall correctly it was a marked "b-grade rosewood" with no other differentiators, so I'm actually not sure of its origin other than that AL called it rosewood.  May very well be East Indian, it looks very similar to their Indian rosewood listings.   

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  • 3 weeks later...
2 hours ago, ScottR said:

You always get the cleanest edges on your faux binding.

I was wondering how those lines can be so clean and sharp... masking game level 90. Quite the looker now. 

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17 hours ago, Lumberjack said:

Got the top stained and sealed:

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Fretwork done as well:

Bq7j3ox.jpg
 

Sealer sanded flat, top coats applied and dried:

yl8ke8c.jpg
 

HXsP8Uo.jpg
 

Bhr2L9G.jpg
 

On to wet sanding and buffing!

I wanna tutacha it and smella it. Thatta willbe a hard night

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5 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

Wow that looks flawless, really good, especially the area around the maple tenon, I always struggle not to get dye on there if I set the neck before dyeing. Mind sharing your process? 

Sure!  I didn't get a picture of this particular guitar in that stage of the process, but this is what it looks like from another one of my builds: I tape off everything but the areas that will remain natural with automotive-style pinstriping tape, then seal the natural areas with a few coats of something clear (sanding sealer, acrylic, lacquer, whatever will work with your top coats).  Then I stain, but since the binding or surrounding areas are sealed in a few coats of clear, any dye that gets on them can easily be wiped off while still wet, or scraped when dry since it can't sink into the wood.  I'm sure there are other methods, but for that PRS-style faux binding this is the only thing I've found that keeps the lines crisp and clean.  

MHcZmjD.jpg

For this build I didn't seal the neck/tenon area though; I just taped it off with the same pin-striping tape I use on the binding and when I got close to that neck/top joint I switched from my dying rag to a little paint brush.  The grain of the top and neck are perpendicular and are also separated by a glue joint, so taping it off and carefully bleeding the dye along the top up to the joint kept it clean.  

Z9kftRC.jpg

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Your workmanship is outstanding and does homage to the pretty woods!

That said, what kind of filler, if any, did you use for the bottom? Those dimples are quite visible, if I may say.

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6 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

Your workmanship is outstanding and does homage to the pretty woods!

That said, what kind of filler, if any, did you use for the bottom? Those dimples are quite visible, if I may say.

None used - I shoot finishes as thin as possible and don't normally fill pores for matte and satin finishes.  I wanted to see what it would look like if I didn't fill on a gloss finish, as I prefer no filler for matte/satin, but in my opinion it looks odd; high gloss and raw/natural are somewhat aesthetically opposed, don't think I would do a finish like this again.    

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I learned most of my finishing techniques from two VHS tapes I bought about 25/30 years ago from StewMac/Dan Erlewine/Don McRostie.

Spray Finishing Basics and Spray Finishing With Colors.

He outlines how to do the PRS faux binding in them, and how you outlined it is exactly how he describes it and how I do it (which is very rarely anymore)

I took a turn in the road a long time ago, that anything that looked like PRS I didn't want to imitate, as I don't like making 'copies' of what someone else came up with, but that's just a personal thing of mine. So I don't do the recessed control knobs or faux binding anymore. To me that's like PRS peeing on the ground and 'scent-marking their turf', and I prefer to pee on my own turf, so-to-speak.

The automotive masking tape used by custom automotive detailing shops being the primary aid.

It will bend around almost any corner and finish just can't get underneath it so you get the clean lines.

And he always used clear lacquer, but yes, sanding sealer (which is clear lacquer, basically) would work too.

He also would take a posterboard or cardboard and cut out a 'spray-shield' for the rest of the interior so you didn't have to use so much masking tape, which I adopted as well.

And you know, I've eased up on the perfectly flat mirror-gloss finish in the past few years.

Just depends on the look I want, but I just did an acoustic makeover where I didn't pore-fill the back and sides and you can see the grain.

I like it that way. The top is mirror-smooth, but the back/sides you can easily see the pores, and I like it like that.

Gorgeous build and finish!

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1 hour ago, Drak said:

And you know, I've eased up on the perfectly flat mirror-gloss finish in the past few years.

Thanks for the kind words! I’ve gotten away from the flat gloss as well, really don’t do it anymore unless it’s specifically requested. I think the more woodworking I’ve done the more interested I am in leaving the wood be, pores and all. 

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